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Voltmeter Installed

6K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Smiley32 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is the product:
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-segmented-volt-meter

However, I got a generic/knock-off for almost half the price from e-Bay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Mini-Digita ... rmvSB=true

Powerwerx said it isn't waterproof, but some of the e-Bay sellers indicate their (seemingly identical) version is, so who the **** knows? But I figured for $15, I would give it a try.

I got an o-ring from Ace Hardware (outside diameter 1 1/4") and installed it on the underside of the panel, before the plastic nut included with the voltmeter. The idea is to (hopefully) keep the panel waterproof. It's not a big deal if it isn't (I hope), but for an extra 80 cents or whatever the o-ring was, I figured I would try.

I used a Milwaukee 1/8" hole saw to drill the hole.

I wired the negative terminal to the battery and the positive terminal to the headlight circuit, at the headlight. This way, the voltmeter only comes on when the engine is running.

The picture doesn't really give it justice. It looks pretty good, like OEM quality. The voltmeter is a lot more modern-looking than anything else on the console, so it stands out, but it still looks good. I installed it in a location that is low enough to not be a distraction at night, but still easily readable when I want to look at it.

One last note - I know my battery is reading low. I drained it quite a bit in the process of installing it. Don't worry - I will charge it up :)

Update: I rode through some serious rain for 6 hours over the weekend, and voltmeter still works fine :)

volmeter3.jpg
 

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#6 ·
alaskaguy said:
beemerphile said:
Does the meter stay on when you turn on your high beams?
The way I wired it, yes it does. The voltmeter comes on when the bike does, and stays on as long as the bike is turned "on".
You checked that it stays on with both low and high beam? If wired to the low beam circuit, I think that it goes out when high beam is selected. Also, if you power it from a high current draw circuit, the voltage drop of the circuit can cause it to always read lower than battery voltage. I have found it to be more accurate if pulled from a low current source like the gauge lighting circuit. best - Lee
 
#7 ·
beemerphile said:
You checked that it stays on with both low and high beam?
Well, yes...it's kinda obvious that it is on :)

if wired to the low beam circuit, I think that it goes out when high beam is selected.
The low beam stays on when you turn on the high beam. You get both lights at once. That's why using the relay is necessary when during the dual-light mod, to turn OFF the low beam on the high beam side, to keep them both from firing at the same time on that side, so that you don't end up with a melted wiring housing. That's what I got as a result of the previous owner's shitty dual headlight mod (viewtopic.php?f=27&t=52546&p=275617&hilit=dual+headlight+mod#p275617).

I pulled out the posting covering what I did on this (viewtopic.php?f=27&t=59010&p=291498&hilit=relay#p291498):

alaskaguy said:
I just wanted to add that I got bonus use of the relay I used for my dual-light mod. I wanted to install a voltmeter, and do it in such a fashion that it only comes on when the engine is running. I was able to reach up from under the scooter and pull the headlight wire off the relay, insert a "piggy tail" of sorts, with one end of it plugged into the headlight wire, and one of the two tails going into the relay and the other connecting to the power for the volt meter.

Had I not put the relay in place, adding the volt meter would have required a lot more work.
In further detail...what I am saying there is I am tapping into the low beam circuit two ways. The first way is to the relay. This is how the low beam filament on the high beam side gets power when just the low beam is on (the relay cuts that power when the high beam circuit goes hot). The second is is to the voltmeter. In other words, the voltmeter is connected to the low beam circuit, just before that circuit goes into the relay I installed for the dual headlight mod.
 
#8 ·
I was not aware that you had modified headlight wiring. Someone with un-modified wiring might follow your lead and be disappointed or confused. On my 2009 (before I modded it to dual projector HID) there was an H4 bulb and an H7 bulb. The H4 had low beam and high beam filaments. The H7 only came on for high beam. If you wired to the stock low beam circuit, it would go off when you switched to high beam. It also remains true that connecting a voltmeter to a high draw circuit can cause it to read lower than battery voltage because of the voltage drop in the circuit.
 
#9 ·
beemerphile said:
I was not aware that you had modified headlight wiring. Someone with un-modified wiring might follow your lead and be disappointed or confused. On my 2009 (before I modded it to dual projector HID) there was an H4 bulb and an H7 bulb. The H4 had low beam and high beam filaments. The H7 only came on for high beam. If you wired to the stock low beam circuit, it would go off when you switched to high beam. It also remains true that connecting a voltmeter to a high draw circuit can cause it to read lower than battery voltage because of the voltage drop in the circuit.
My previous post may have been unclear on three points.

1). The stock headlight wiring on my 2009 TMAX works like this:
  • High Beams Off: Right light on, Left light filament #1 off, filament #2 off[/*]
  • High Beams On: Right light on, Left light filament #2 off, filament #2 on[/*]
2). With my "dual headlight mod", my 2009 TMAX works like this:
  • High Beams Off: Right light on, Left light filament #1 on, filament #2 off[/*]
  • High Beams On: Right light on, Left light filament #2 off, filament #2 on[/*]
3). The voltmeter is wired to the "low beam" circuit before the right side light, and would perform the same even if the modification to the left side functionality were not performed. In other words, since the right side light is ALWAYS on, the voltmeter is ALWAYS on. It doesn't cut out when the high beam comes on because the right side light doesn't cut out when the high beam comes on.

On your point out where to wire it...I guess my thoughts are:
  • I don't think the low beam is particularly high draw...certainly more than gauge illumination...but not a huge amount. The gauge illumination might even be wired into the low beam circuit for all I know (I will check out of curiosity next time I am in there). [/*]
  • Even if it is "reading low", I don't think any extra draw is material for my purposes. We're not talking about a heart monitor here, where a very precise voltage reading may be critical. What I need to know is about CHANGE in voltage, not absolute voltage. Even if it is "reading low", it's going to read the same "low" throughout my ride, provided there are no problems. If I start my ride and I'm reading 13.3 volts, and at some point, I'm reading 11.2 volts, that tells me what I need to know...even if actual voltage is 11.7 volts.[/*]
  • Even if it is "reading low", it is giving me a "conservative" reading - which is a lot better than an optimistic reading, and, for my purposes (as indicated above), is as good as an accurate reading.[/*]
Overall - I'm not disputing your fact - only the materiality to my use case.
 
#10 ·
Posted by request.

Materials and special items required:
  • The voltmeter (Test it with a battery before installing it! Make sure it works).[/*]
  • o-ring, outside diameter 1 1/4"[/*]
  • 1/8" hole saw [/*]
You also need the usual assortment of items - basic tools and such, basic electrical supplies (cutters, soldering iron, electrical tape, solder, etc.).

Remove Plastic
  • Follow instructions "out there" for removing the nose from the TMAX. Set it aside in a supported manner. If you can, disconnect all wires (using the disconnects) that keep it attached to the bike, and set it way out of your way somewhere.[/*]
  • Locate the battery and familiarize yourself with things.[/*]
  • Remove the "console" piece where you will put the voltmeter. Set the screws aside somewhere and then put it back on where it goes, without screwing it on.[/*]
Voltmeter Placement:
  • Decide where to put it. I spent a lot of time trying to find the best place, and I think I did. I highly recommend you put it in the same place :)[/*]
  • Mark your location with a Sharpie. Just mark the center point where you will drill. There is no "undo" once you drill - so get this right. If you have a "spring center punch", use one to mark the center of the hole, to keep your drill bit from "walking" when you try to drill (recommended)[/*]
  • Take the "console" cover piece off and drill your hole. I found a 1 1/8" hole saw was perfect.[/*]
  • Install the voltmeter. Push it through the hole. On the back side, put the o-ring on, and then put on the "screw on" ring. Get it good and tight, but no need to go Superman on it or anything.
    Put the cover aside.[/*]
Make your main wires:
  • Cut two 1 meter long pieces of wire. Ideally, make one black and one red.[/*]
  • Strip the ends to expose the wires[/*]
  • On one end of each wire, solder or crimp on a female slot connector of the appropriate size for the male connectors on the back of the voltmeter. [/*]
  • Get your cover with the voltmeter installed in it, and attach the wires to the correct locations. Black for negative, red for positive. [/*]
  • Put the cover back on - without the screws - and figure out how to route the wires appropriate. The red wire goes to the right side of the bike where the low-beam light is. The black wire goes to the battery. [/*]
  • Satisfy yourself with the wire routing and trim to length if needed. Don't cut them too short!!![/*]
  • Solder or crimp on a ring connector of the size for your negative battery post to the black wire. Solder on a male slot connector to the red wire. You can take the wires back off the voltmeter and go to a work bench to do this if it is more comfortable.[/*]
  • Label your wires, "voltmeter+" and "voltmeter-" if you can - at the non-voltmeter side of the wires. Go ahead and attach the negative wire to the battery.[/*]
Make your little piggyback wire:
  • Cut two 3" long pieces of red wire.[/*]
  • Crimp or solder THE SAME female slot connector to one end of both wires. This connector will have both wires coming out of it! Make sure you use the right size connector.[/*]
  • On the free end of both wires, crimp or solder a male slot connector[/*]
  • Use electrical tape or heat shrink wrap on the ends to make them look nice.[/*]
  • You're done - set this aside[/*]
.
Modify low-beam wiring:
  • Locate the low-beam power wire and the connector to the low-beam light. [/*]
  • Cut that wire, about 4" from the connector where it attaches to the light. Make sure you cut the right wire - there is no undo here. [/*]
  • Strip the ends to expose the wires[/*]
  • Using the wire you JUST CUT, crimp or solder on a female slot connector on the "headlight connector" side of the wire and a male slot connector on the "bike side" of the wire.[/*]
  • Grab the piggy back wire you made. Plug one end of it into the bike side wire. Plug one end of it into the connector side wire. Plug the 3rd end into the voltmeter positive wire. [/*]
  • You're done here[/*]
Test your work
  • At this point, your voltmeter is connected to two wires. One goes to the battery. The other goes to the low-beam circuit[/*]
  • The voltmeter should be on whenever the low-beam is on...which is whenever the bike is on and running.[/*]
  • The voltmeter should be on ONLY when the low-beam is on and at no other time.[/*]
  • Start the bike up. The voltmeter should come on. [/*]
  • Flip the high beams on and off - the voltmeter should not turn off[/*]
  • Turn the bike off - the voltmeter should go off.[/*]
  • If during testing, it does not work as expected, double-check your work. If still no good, report back[/*]

If testing works - reassemble your bike :)
 
#11 ·
Wow, I'm in awe. That is amore complete set of instructions than I would have dared to ask for. Thanks very, very much. I suspect this install is not as complicated as I imagine, assuming that i get the plastic off without damage, get the materials together and take my time on the work. On an auto bike, where bump starting is not possible, a volt meter should be a standard part of the instrumentation.

Damon
 
#12 ·
Umbrianissimo said:
Wow, I'm in awe. That is amore complete set of instructions than I would have dared to ask for. Thanks very, very much. I suspect this install is not as complicated as I imagine, assuming that i get the plastic off without damage, get the materials together and take my time on the work. On an auto bike, where bump starting is not possible, a volt meter should be a standard part of the instrumentation.
You are very welcome :)

And you're right - it's not hard. If it were not for removing the nose - I'd rate it as a "1" on a scale of 1 to 5.

If you want - and you're not in a hurry (as in, can deal with a delay of 2-3 weeks), AND you want to send my wife a $25 bottle of wine that is something maybe she can't easily get here - I will make the wires for you and send them to you. By make, I mean the following:
  • Make the negative wire to the battery[/*]
  • Make the positive wire to the piggyback[/*]
  • Make the piggyback wire[/*]
  • Label all ends appropriately[/*]
  • Solder and shrink wrap all terminals[/*]
The idea would be that all you have to do is cut the right wire in the right place, plug in what I send you, connect to battery and voltmeter.

If you want to send me the voltmeter and the cover piece, I will drill the hole and install the voltmeter, along with an o-ring I will source for you. Then I will post it all back to you in the mail. This will save you from having to buy the hole saw and the o-ring, in addition to the wiring pieces and parts. You'll end up with "ready to install" components. You will just need to cut one wire, put connectors on that wire, and then plug in the rest of this stuff :)
 
#13 ·
@alaskaguy,

Thanks for both generous offers. Anything to do with wine gets my full attention, so that is a good medium of exchange. I like both options. I am not in a hurry, and because my bike is a newer model, with newer bodywork, I'm going to wait until I get a reasonably warmish, dryish day and do the body dismantle. Then I'll have an idea of where the wires are that I would need to cut, or perhaps I'll find some waiting spade end that is switched, thus avoiding the cut 'n splice method. As well I'll be able to locate a panel with clear space behind it.

Actually, your instructional post is worth the wine all by itself...

Damon
 
#14 ·
Hi,

OK - well, let me know if you need any help.

You don't HAVE tie in where I suggested. You can tie in to any hot wire that is hot ONLY when the bike is "on". This is why you don't run the positive directly to the battery - because you only want it on when the bike is on.

HOWEVER, if you want to avoid splicing any wires, and you don't mind putting in a switch somewhere - you can do that. In this case, you wire the voltmeter positive to the switch, and then the switch to the battery. This gives you control of whether the voltmeter is "on" or not, and it can be on even when the bike is not running. Of course, then you have to remember to turn it on or off as necessary. If you want, you can make it a "hidden" switch. Install it inside one of the dash "cubby" storage areas. Or, if you want uber coolness, you can use a magnetic switch - and have it come on when you put a magnet over the right portion of the console. That would be a pretty slick way to do it - if the console isn't too thick for magnets to work. You could put a magnet on your keyring - and arrange things so that when you take your keys with you, the magnet goes too, turning off the volt meter. You'd have to put the magnet in place manually whenever you wanted to turn on the voltmeter though.

I put my air horn on a switch, and the switch is inside a cubby. If I want the air horn to be active when I press the horn button, the hidden switch is in the "on" position. If I want to disable the air horn, and have only the electric horn turn on when I hit the horn button, the switch is in the "off" position. I did this in case I have issues with vehicle "inspections", complaints from cops, etc. etc. With the switch in the off position, no one even knows the horn is there (unless they disassemble the bike). I have not had issues though, so my switch is always in the "on" position :)
 
#16 ·
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