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CVT Slipping?

7K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  gruntled 
#1 ·
Over the past 2 weeks I've noticed a growing problem with my 2009 Tmax. The acceleration is getting worse, there is a lot more slipping from the CVT than there ever was. If I start really slowly, you don't notice, but any time I give much throttle it just seems to slip a lot and accelerate slowly until it gets past 30 or 40. And it seems to be getting worse. The belt engages quickly as usual, but then it's like the weights just aren't sliding like they normally should. I'm not sure how else to explain it, other than it's slipping.

I did the belt change myself at 18K miles, and also put in Dr. Pully sliders at that time. It now has 23K miles.

Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting or what might cause it?

Thank you.
 
#2 ·
Simple answer, as mine had this issue, its the clutch not the CVT.

I would be surprised if it was anything else. I investigated mine thoroughly and came to this conclusion, took it to my favorite mechanic/dealer who took it for a spin and said it is likely the clutch. Apparently it is a known issue that a few, not all, possibly have an assembly issue or a quality issue that means the clutch wears early. This can vary from my mechanics experience from 7k - 28k miles but the clutch should last at least twice that mileage.

I do have a question though just to be sure, are you using the correct oil type? 10W-40, SG type or higher, JASO standard? And not one that inhibits friction? Because its a Wet Clutch it needs friction to cause it to not slip.
 
#3 ·
If you inspect the CVT, you'll probably be able to tell if slip is happening in there. When the belt slips it makes a lot of heat. You'll be likely to see things like glazing of the edges of the belt, more than usual belt wear and dust, possible discoloration of metal parts if it's severe, black marks on pulleys from the belt slip, and extreme heat can start melting rollers/sliders as well. Since there are seals and grease in the CVT, there's also a chance that grease is now lubricating something that it shouldn't, though I'd think that would be a problem to some degree nearly all of the time. If everything looks great under the cover, then it may be the clutch or oil as funky said.
 
#4 ·
So it turns out it was indeed the clutch.

The parts list is attached. I was out of town most of May so I had the dealer do the work, even though I've always done my own work like the belt change.

The bike is a 2009, but bought with 0 miles in 2011. It now has 23,300 miles.

I use the bike to commute to work, 9 miles each way, lots of traffic lights and stop and go.

I have changed the oil regularly every 3,000 miles, and always use oil like Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle, JASO MA and API SF/SG/SJ. The oil has always met the standards from Yamaha, but has not been the OEM Yamaha oil.

So....

Is the recommendation that we should be using Yamaha OEM oil?

Or perhaps the amount of stop and go I've done for 23,000 miles just wore the clutch sooner than most?

Thanks for the input.
 

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#5 ·
As long as your oil meets the standards, you're good. A lot of owners don't realize the t-max has a wet type clutch and ruin it by using an oil with a lot of modifiers added. That looks like it was an expensive tab. I've heard of a few others that had clutch issues with relatively low mile bikes. I think it is just a random thing, like Funkycowie stated.
 
#7 ·
You grab brake and throttle up?

One early 09 rider used to do that at stop lights to be cool. Can't do that with the Tmax clutch.

A lot of stop and go with hard acceleration will kill the clutch plates too.

Was watching Scooter drag races on YouTube and a Turbo Max can do wheelies and burn the rear tire. It was faster than the Italian 800. :shock:
 
#8 ·
DontCallItBumbleBee said:
So it turns out it was indeed the clutch.

The parts list is attached. I was out of town most of May so I had the dealer do the work, even though I've always done my own work like the belt change.

The bike is a 2009, but bought with 0 miles in 2011. It now has 23,300 miles.

I use the bike to commute to work, 9 miles each way, lots of traffic lights and stop and go.

I have changed the oil regularly every 3,000 miles, and always use oil like Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle, JASO MA and API SF/SG/SJ. The oil has always met the standards from Yamaha, but has not been the OEM Yamaha oil.

So....

Is the recommendation that we should be using Yamaha OEM oil?

Or perhaps the amount of stop and go I've done for 23,000 miles just wore the clutch sooner than most?

Thanks for the input.
Rehashing this thread. Bumblebee did you you get the clutch repaired and how is it been running since? I have the same problem, but haven't addressed it yet. It's been two years, sitting in my garage.
 
#9 ·
Sorry for the late reply; Yes the dealer did replace the clutch and that fixed the problem. I posted the parts list above.

The dealer first told me that it was the belt; I resisted that because I had changed the belt just 8000 miles ago. I don't know how you would tell the two issues apart. In my case, the bike would be ok when cold for the first mile or two, but then would start slipping more and more as it warmed up, to the point after 5 miles I was worried if it would even get moving after stopping.

Good luck to you!
 
#11 ·
When I checked with the dealers about replacing the clutch on my Majesty they quoted me prices based on all of the parts & labor for assembling them. They didn't have a price for just the clutch & they would only install a Yamaha clutch. The prices approached $2000. I bought a new non-Yamaha clutch for a small fraction of that & had it installed by a non dealer. I have other uses for my money than sending the dealer's kids to an expensive college.
 
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