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variator sheave holding tools

7K views 30 replies 6 participants last post by  pellicle 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi

I just bought one from an eBay seller in Greece (and I'm in Australia).

I have some exposure to metal fabrication and the manufacturing of this was phukken exemplary. Having seen the one that bigwheelsturning bent in his video I was wary of buying rubbish. However as I'll use a rattle gun to do the removal I only need the holder for putting back on, not taking off, which I believe will be easier on it ... none the less this thing is just ... WOW

The price was 70 euro and you'll need to sort out shipping prices (it was 40 euro to Australia).

Some pictures

IMG-20180709-WA0007.jpg


IMG-20180709-WA0009.jpg


IMG-20180709-WA0011.jpg


The sellers name is f1sport and he's from Greece. This is a link to the auction I bought (but search his seller site for Yamaha if it changes)
He's clearly an engineer and had this to say in communications about the tool (I was so impressed I wrote back to him):
I'm very glad that you are happy with your item!
Be sure that is a very useful tool for the Tmax transmission maintains.
When I made the first items of this I have used waterjet cutting but the results was very bad.
Stainless steel is a very difficult material and waterjet cut leaves a very bad finish.
This tool cut on a big cutter press machine at a mechanical center of ship repairs.
After cutting drilled by the same way and then goes to an abrasive machine for the final finish.
Only this way gives this results on this material.

If you're thinking of getting one I think you won't be disappointed.
 

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#27 ·
pellicle said:
which is why I mentioned to you in posts that it was actually 29mm not the 30 you've been saying. If you calculate 1 1/8th it comes to 29.26mm ... which is smaller than 30, so while a 30 will fit over it's going to bugger up your nut over time. Use the 29 as I mentioned (or if you have the 1 1/18th impact socket then go wild with that).
I wasn't ignoring your advice, and what I should have said was that I found the nut to be between 29 and 30mm, not between 30 and 31.
I tried both my 29mm socket and 29 mm spanner, but I wasn't happy with either … there was some burring on the edge of the nut which I though about filing, but measuring with my digital caliper, it was showing 29.3 mm, so allowing for error, and being concerned about wrecking a very expensive component, I chose to go with the 1 1/8th.
C'est la vie, I am quite conservative, and go with what I am comfortable.
 
#28 ·
WayneTalbot said:
I wasn't ignoring your advice, and what I should have said was that I found the nut to be between 29 and 30mm, not between 30 and 31.
All good, I just wasn't sure if you'd seen it.

I bought a plain 6 point hex type of socket, not the ones which have less grip on the nut.

Always better to be conservative.
 
#29 ·
WayneTalbot said:
My reason for using a spanner versus a socket comes from the experience of breaking the ratchet mechanism on my everyday set.
The handle isn't long enough to get sufficient leverage, and if I add a length of pipe to extend the lever, the torque exceeds the limit of the ratchet mechanis, and it breaks. Normally that should not be a problem, but in the case in question, where over 300 Nm was required to loosen the nut, the spanner was the safest option.
That's why using an impact wrench with the socket is a good idea :)
 
#30 ·
pellicle said:
I see from your comments you loosened it a bit before applying the spring compressor, as the manual doesn't mention that I wonder if the bending of your metal bar was caused by something else (like the PVC fouling on another bit)?

Well, using the "special tool" in the photo - see how it is supported? It's got the 90 degree legs pointed down. So the force on the metal is aligned with the direction of the spring, and that is a much thicker and stronger dimension. In the contraption I have, the force is against my bar in the width direction...much weaker, prone to bending.

In short - they don't have to loosen it because of their tool - I do. That's my theory.
 
#31 ·
alaskaguy said:
Well, using the "special tool" in the photo - see how it is supported? It's got the 90 degree legs pointed down. So the force on the metal is aligned with the direction of the spring, and that is a much thicker and stronger dimension. In the contraption I have, the force is against my bar in the width direction...much weaker, prone to bending.

In short - they don't have to loosen it because of their tool - I do. That's my theory.
I'm not sure I can translate this into what I see, but when I have the rear sheave out in my hand and look again maybe it'll become clearer.

no stress
 
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