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HOLY CRAP! My Tmax is now a friggin' MOTORCYCLE!!!

39K views 93 replies 24 participants last post by  pellicle 
#1 ·
Finally took the time and installed my Dr. Pulley Sliders & Sliding Pieces. Used four 18gm Sliders (Dr. Pulley recommended for Tmax) and four 15gm Sliders (recommended for Majesty 400): Average Weight is 16.5gms. The RESULTS:

1.) Hesitation off the line is GONE. Acceleration from stop is seamless and MUCH faster than stock.
2.) Midrange acceleration (e.g. NAIL it at 30 and keep it down till 65) is ASTONISHING!!! Literally a different bike.
3.) Idle is QUIETER...rattling of the stock variator is GONE...only had 3,500 miles on the rollers & sliding pieces. And the sliding pieces were quite WORN.

I thouight that the Dr. Pulleys had transformed my Majesty; just as much of an inprovement as THAT on my Tmax. For LESS than $75.00. Amazing.

I recently test road the BMW C650GT...my Tmax will now WALK AWAY from that BMW.

WHY such an improvement? The Tmax is now in it's SWEET SPOT at full throttle, with max torque and 90%+ horsepower. Again, Wow.

Thanks, BWT, for the Variator Tool drawing. Made one and was able to torque it to the factory 115 ft/lbs no sweat
(FYI...I marked the nut/crank positions with a scribe. When I reinstalled the nut, at full torque it was PAST the original mark)

(There were a few caveats with the new Sliding Pieces and the HORRIBLE ROUGH CASTING on the variator that they slide against, which is why my factory sliding pieces were worn and loose. If you are interested I'll do a follow-up post.)

Tmaxers: you GOTTA DO THIS MOD!

Neil
 
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#2 ·
Ok, now I am intrigued. I have to change my belt this spring (about 15k on it) so I was considering doing the J Costa but it is a little pricey. What is involved in upgrading to Dr Pulley?
 
#3 ·
Martini Man:

Couldn't be EASIER!

First, make sure you have the factory repair manual. It has all the proceedures and torque specs.
Next, just put it on the center stand and pull-off the appropriate tupperware on the right side.(20 minutes once you know the drill...maybe DOUBLE that first time...)
Now you move a few cables/foot peg covering the side cover and the variator filter cover and crank cover. (5 min)
Remove all the large/small bolts on the engine side cover, pop it loose from underneath in front (a recess to do it)and wiggle off, past the exhaust. (5 min)

There. Now you are looking at the variator/belt/secondary sheave. Use two 6mm X 45mm bolts, screwed into the two threaded holes on the secondary Sheave (on the LEFT, facing the Tmax). Just a few turns once it contacts and it RELEASES all the belt tension on the variator assembly. COOL!

Next, get your 1/2" IMPACT gun to remove the variator retaining nut. It's 29mm (hard to find) but a 6-point 1-1/8" Impact socket fits PERFECTLY, better than a 29 MM one...and it's at Sears.

First mark the relative positions of the crank end/nut (PICTURE BELOW) with a SCRIBE, and then pop it off. Variator outer half will slide right off.

Put on bench, side apart, change-out the 8 rollers for Dr. Pulley Sliders, and change-out the 4 soft sliding pieces with Dr. pulley replacements. That's it.

if your variator casting is like MINE was, you'll have to SAND the sides of the 4 rectangular guides the sliding pieces slide on (SEE PIC BELOW AGAIN) with 320 wet sandpaper (using it DRY, though), as they might be a ROUGH, unfinished casting like MINE was. Also, the sliding pieces will be a bit TIGHT on the steel piece they lock into...have to massage a bit w/sandpaper to seat-in fully. It all took me and extra 40 minutes, making sure the inner piece could slide in and out smoothly, full travel, without binding. Don't worry, it's EASY...

Clean-up with brake cleaner, lube with correct greases, and put back together, MAKING SURE that you keep the variator half fully IN as you re-install, aligning it with the crank SPLINES.

Special tool? Not really necessary. I did it all the first time on my Majesty (Same parts), and retorqued with the impact gun until my scribed marks JUST passed each other. (Pro Mechanic trick that's more accurate than most torque wrenches). Just to CHECK, this time I used a variator holding tool I made, and then my $300 Calibrated Torque Wrench; and it gave the same results at 115 ft/lbs as the all-impact method. (LUBE threads and contact flats, though!)

Results are amazing. Do It!
 

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#5 ·
Wish I had done this when I changed the belt and put in new OEM rollers. The new ones rattled more than the old ones, and the old ones still looked brand new.

Will change over at the next belt change/check/valve clearance at 24K.
 
#6 ·
My brother and I bought TWO sets of rollers early-on. He seemed to want it to be a bit more convervative, so I found the Dr. Pulley recommended 18gm sliders for him.

A poster on THIS forum was selling a set of 15gm dr. Pulley Sliders that he had never put in the majesty he sold. T bought THOSE from him.

SO, we mixed 4 of each and you end up with an average effective weight of 16.5gms/slider.

For YOU, here are the sources I know of:

Here is the German Dr. Pulley Website Sliding Pieces -
http://www.drpulley.info/shop/product_i ... cts_id=907

Here are the 15, 16 17 & 18gm Sliders in Germany -
http://www.drpulley.info/shop/index.php?cPath=47_62

Here is where I got a set of the 15gm Sliders here in the US -
http://www.buggypartsnw.com/home?page=s ... gory_id=42

Most Euro Tuners use the 15gm for hot rodding...a bit to high-rev for me. Most parts sites there stock as replacement the 16gm or 17gm, even though Dr. Pulley's own site shows the 18gm as "stock" replacement.

I'd just get a set of Sliding Pieces AND 17gm Sliders from Germany. Should be PERFECT!

Neil
 

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#7 ·
FORGOT to MENTION:

The bike will be so much quicker after the variator upgrade, you really MUST change the brake pads to SINTERED. The stock Organics won't cut it any more.

I had wondered why the Euros didn't stop at just putting in SINTERED pads, but upgraded to full BREMBO, or GALPER or NG Oversized Rotor Kits.

Now I know. Change the variator and it's a Sport Bike...needs Sport Bike Brakes!
 

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#9 ·
#11 ·
I just installed the 16grs Dr.Pulleys and hour ago, tested drove it, and i can confirm it's a totally different bike.the lag from stop has vanished and the acceleration has improved a lot, I still cannot belive these sliders change it so drastically. Acceleration has improved across the board, not just from stand still. Revs have gone up too so I am assuming even gas consumption will go up now, but, that is what i wanted and I am happy:)).

I bought them from here.

http://www.drpulley.info/shop/product_i ... cts_id=635
 
#12 ·
Glad you are HAPPY!! HUGE difference for not much $$$.

No WONDER the Dr. Pulley Sliders are now OEM on many Piaggio products, including the Vespa 300's and the Aprilia SRV850!
 
#16 ·
So guys... is there any disadvantage to do this?

My previous scooter (Piaggio) was stock for 10,000kms, then I sold it. This Tmax I have now is second-hand but it is almost new and 100% stock.

In other words, I have had no experience modifying a scooter-specifc parts, such as the variators...
 
#17 ·
No downside at all! though your RPMs will run about 500 more at cruise and about 6-700 more full-throttle, you need LESS throttle to maintain the SAME speed, so it is a WASH. Any loss of milage comes from wanting to Haul Butt more than before...'cause you CAN.
In "normal" riding, there should be little if any change, WELL OFFSET by the ability to pass slow vehicles instantly and safely, with instant throttle response...no more ramp-up LAG!
 
#18 ·
Sku-Torr said:
FORGOT to MENTION:

The bike will be so much quicker after the variator upgrade, you really MUST change the brake pads to SINTERED. The stock Organics won't cut it any more.

I had wondered why the Euros didn't stop at just putting in SINTERED pads, but upgraded to full BREMBO, or GALPER or NG Oversized Rotor Kits.

Now I know. Change the variator and it's a Sport Bike...needs Sport Bike Brakes!
The stock brakes are sport bike brakes (pre radial mount R-6). The stock pad compound is fine as well for any amount of power you could get out of the Tmax. The stock brakes are really quite amazing, powerfull good feel, and used in conjunction with the rear brakes to help eliminate fork dive, they are truley excellent. Aside from that, sintered pads are harder on the rotors, and the last time I used them on a bike, very noisy. I do agree that doing something with the variator is the best mod you can do,as I put a Jcosta on mine, and also that the Tmax is very much more than a scooter. Much more motorcycle like than anyone that has not ridden one would know.

I would also highly recommend a pipe, I'm sure there are some Wide Open Throttle gains with one, and as you pointed out you are likely to be twisting the throttle more with the added fun factor of a variator mod.
 
#19 ·
How bad does it lower the mpg?
 
#20 ·
Also, which slides do you purchase to go with the sliders. Sku, like your bro, I'm more conservative due to mpg concerns, so I'll like go 18 and 17 gr mixes!
 
#21 ·
shoupdawg said:
How bad does it lower the mpg?
Since I did the 16grs last week i only went through one tank of gas, did not keep the milage, but it does seems to have went down by about 25 kms on the tank. having said that, i was not soft on the throttle,the scoot has now become so strong on the acceleration...:)))
today i filled up and will keep track of the miles i will do.
 
#22 ·
Riccardo62 said:
shoupdawg said:
How bad does it lower the mpg?
Since I did the 16grs last week i only went through one tank of gas, did not keep the milage, but it does seems to have went down by about 25 kms on the tank. having said that, i was not soft on the throttle,the scoot has now become so strong on the acceleration...:)))
today i filled up and will keep track of the miles i will do.
Thanks. Aside from a fabricated oil/foam filter (vs. factory paper filter) and Iridium sparkplugs I put on my Citycom, the 19gr Dr. Pulley sliders are the only other mod. My gas mileage is good...for a 262 cc engine. I'm hoping this won't bring down the mpg too much, especially as I will have 17.5 grams (mix of 18's and 17's).

Also, I see the sliders but couldn't figure out which SLIDES to buy?
 
#23 ·
So let me make sure I understand this, as I am a little slow...

1. Dr Pulley sliders are mods to the stock variator and price way cheaper than the J Costa.

2. Deliver major performance upgrade and are fairly easy to install.

3. 18 gr weights are preferred.

Did I miss anything?
 
#24 ·
Twisted Martini said:
So let me make sure I understand this, as I am a little slow...

1. Dr Pulley sliders are mods to the stock variator and price way cheaper than the J Costa.

2. Deliver major performance upgrade and are fairly easy to install.

3. 18 gr weights are preferred.

Did I miss anything?
Not the resident expert, but yes that's my understanding. And it doesn't increase top end based on my experience and what I've read. If anything it may actually go down a bit, but what you get in return is more quickness of the line. (This is just eyeballing it based on my experience with a non-Dr. Pulley Citycom and a Dr Pulley Citycom).

I will likely go with 17 and 18 gr weights. This way, I can try out various combinations between those weights. I would like quicker off the line but with the least possible hit to mpg. The way I read is, the lighter the weight, the higher the revs, so you'll burn more fuel with the rev's. Following that logic, closer to stock weight (18gr) would mean less revs and consequently less pull off the line.
 
#25 ·
If your worried about MPG leave it standard.

If you want better take off you would be better with 16g sliders or 16g & 17g if you want to mix them up (standard weight 19g) 18g wouldn't do much.

With 16g I loose about 1-2k per litre (was 20-22k per litre now average 19-21) 500rpm heigher @ 100kph, better off the mark, better out of corners & roundabouts and to pick up that extra 10-20k for overtaking etc.

Greg
 
#26 ·
Hmmm...may try those then. Thanks for the input. Decisions, decisions.
 
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