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2009 TMax overheating issue

385 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  tdschubert
Hi, I finally went all in on figuring out why my TMax I bought last summer from a guy for $3500 is overheating. about 5k miles on it.

The outlet pipe for the fast idle plunger is rusted through. The hose attached to it partially covered it, but I'm sure I was slowly losing coolant when the bike came up to temperature. I'd lose coolant and then it would overheat. I never saw anything leaking out though.

Water Household hardware Fluid Finger Liquid


Anyway, I'm glad I found it and hope this info might be useful for others who are having overheating issues.

Finding the part to replace it is going to be my next challenge. I found a whole carb on ebay for $160. I can't find anyone offering just the fast idle plunger. Anyone know of a source?

If this part was corroded through from the inside, I'm a little nervous what the rest of the system looks like inside. I think it probably sat with old coolant in it for a long time.

Cheers!

-Troy
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There are numerous bike dismantlers. I'd search them all for that part. Good luck!
As far as I can tell from looking at TMax intake drawings at partzilla.com, this was not sold as a separate part number by Yamaha. I agree with minimac that if you don't want to replace the carb you'll need to reach out to parts salvage firms, and if they can't help you may be able to bring the damaged part to a fabricator to replicate.
Update... got a whole carb from ebay and it had the "fast idle plunger" on it. Installed it last night and running great right now. Great progress!

The fast idle plunger as I understand has a kind of actuator inside that pushes a rod over when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. This rod slows the idle down. In effect, you get a higher idle speed when the coolant is cold, but then it will settle to a lower idle when the scooter is warmed up.

Because mine had a leak and coolant wasn't flowing through the fast idle plunger, my idle was really high. In fact, this helped me find the issues because I knew something was going on with the fast idle plunger based on reading the manual. However, this caused the ECU / Check engine light to go on with a fault code 37 - stuck fast idle plunger.

Now that I fixed the problem with a new fast idle plunger, I've been trying to get the check engine light to go out. The manual says this:

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So far, I've tried...
a/ running it for more than 5 mins a couple times. still has check engine light with fault code 37.
b/ disconnecting the + terminal of the battery and letting it sit for ~25 mins. Reconnected, started it, still has check engine light with fault code 37.

I'm not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

-Troy
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Update... got a whole carb from ebay and it had the "fast idle plunger" on it. Installed it last night and running great right now. Great progress!

The fast idle plunger as I understand has a kind of actuator inside that pushes a rod over when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. This rod slows the idle down. In effect, you get a higher idle speed when the coolant is cold, but then it will settle to a lower idle when the scooter is warmed up.

Because mine had a leak and coolant wasn't flowing through the fast idle plunger, my idle was really high. In fact, this helped me find the issues because I knew something was going on with the fast idle plunger based on reading the manual. However, this caused the ECU / Check engine light to go on with a fault code 37 - stuck fast idle plunger.

Now that I fixed the problem with a new fast idle plunger, I've been trying to get the check engine light to go out. The manual says this:

View attachment 14772

So far, I've tried...
a/ running it for more than 5 mins a couple times. still has check engine light with fault code 37.
b/ disconnecting the + terminal of the battery and letting it sit for ~25 mins. Reconnected, started it, still has check engine light with fault code 37.

I'm not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

-Troy
And then there's this somewhat cryptic statement in the manual about erasing the history. I might be on to something here, but not sure.
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And then there's this somewhat cryptic statement in the manual about erasing the history. I might be on to something here, but not sure.
View attachment 14773
ok, I have to put it into diagnostic mode and then I can clear the codes with #62. Will try tomorrow.
ok, I have to put it into diagnostic mode and then I can clear the codes with #62. Will try tomorrow.
I couldn't wait that long, so I tried it tonight.

I was able to get it into diagnostic mode by following the instructions in the manual. I got to a screen that said: "d62 2". I flipped the kill switch from off back to on. Then the screen said: "d62 1". I flipped the switch again and still said: "d62 1". Exited diagnostic mode, reconnected fuel pump, started it, check engine light still on.

Maybe NOW I have to run it for 5 mins, which DOES have to wait until tomorrow.
I couldn't wait that long, so I tried it tonight.

I was able to get it into diagnostic mode by following the instructions in the manual. I got to a screen that said: "d62 2". I flipped the kill switch from off back to on. Then the screen said: "d62 1". I flipped the switch again and still said: "d62 1". Exited diagnostic mode, reconnected fuel pump, started it, check engine light still on.

Maybe NOW I have to run it for 5 mins, which DOES have to wait until tomorrow.
Yeah, still can't get it to reset. Had it out for 45 minute ride today and no overheating which is great, but sure wish I could get that check engine light off.
Tried the letting it idle for 5 mins thing and every other kind of raindance. Any other advice would be welcomed.... thanks!
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