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Installed a Power Commander III on my scooter yesterday.
First, the same unit is used for 2005 and 2006 bikes. Check ebay - you will find much cheaper prices than what Dynojet charges - I paid $199 plus shipping.
As with most aftermarket performance products that promise they "bolt on with simple hand tools" this means if you have every hand tool every offerend by Snap-On, a machine shop equivalent to NASA's space shuttle lab and a 30 pound sledge hammer you MIGHT be able to get the part to fit - if you're lucky. It's obvious the person who wrote the installation instructions for the Majesty never tried to install one himself.
First, you will need the Power Commander plus a lot of zip-ties, which Dyno jet does not supply. This is to firmly attach your cables to the cable harnesses of the Majesty so they don't rub against to frame and short out, and the mount the Power Commander module (more on that later).
The grey connector is a biotch to get apart. Once apart, the Power Commander connectors hook up easily. There is JUST ENOUGH space under the side cover to get everything to fit if you cram and zip-tie in the cables/connectors densely enough.
Now for the big problem - the instructions say to attach the Power Commander module on top of the battery with Velcro. This is IMPOSSIBLE. The module is too thick and you CANNOT re-attach the grab bar. I wound up zip-tying to module to the back of the battery -there is enough space inside the over the tailight cowling for it to fit.
I've only ridden the bike a little bit but here are my impressions:
- it is slightly harder to start
- there was a "dead' spot just when the scooter was beginning to accelerate from a stop - this is gone. Going up a steep bridge at 57mph indicated and accelerating it seemed to have more power. The power increase is not dramatic, as you would expect from re-mapping the fuel management computer on a stock bike.
If you are going to heavily modify your scooter - aftermarket low restriction exhaust, ported head etc. be prepared to spend $$$ at an approved Dynojet Dynamometer tuning facility. Trying to program the unit yourself will probably result in the bike making less power.
The Dynojet site lists all the approved tuning facilities. Expect to spend 2 hours on dyno time. Call the facility in advance and ask them what they charge for dyno time and tuning. And have the cowling off so they can access the module or you will be charged dyno time for the time it takes to take the cowling off. This means riding to the dyno shop with no rear seat, no grab bar and no upper tailight cowling.
Has anyone ever drag raced one of these things? There is a 1/8th. mile NHRA strip near me and I am tempted. Can you do a burnout with a continuously variable transmission? My luck I'll be paired up with a Hyabusa :?
First, the same unit is used for 2005 and 2006 bikes. Check ebay - you will find much cheaper prices than what Dynojet charges - I paid $199 plus shipping.
As with most aftermarket performance products that promise they "bolt on with simple hand tools" this means if you have every hand tool every offerend by Snap-On, a machine shop equivalent to NASA's space shuttle lab and a 30 pound sledge hammer you MIGHT be able to get the part to fit - if you're lucky. It's obvious the person who wrote the installation instructions for the Majesty never tried to install one himself.
First, you will need the Power Commander plus a lot of zip-ties, which Dyno jet does not supply. This is to firmly attach your cables to the cable harnesses of the Majesty so they don't rub against to frame and short out, and the mount the Power Commander module (more on that later).
The grey connector is a biotch to get apart. Once apart, the Power Commander connectors hook up easily. There is JUST ENOUGH space under the side cover to get everything to fit if you cram and zip-tie in the cables/connectors densely enough.
Now for the big problem - the instructions say to attach the Power Commander module on top of the battery with Velcro. This is IMPOSSIBLE. The module is too thick and you CANNOT re-attach the grab bar. I wound up zip-tying to module to the back of the battery -there is enough space inside the over the tailight cowling for it to fit.
I've only ridden the bike a little bit but here are my impressions:
- it is slightly harder to start
- there was a "dead' spot just when the scooter was beginning to accelerate from a stop - this is gone. Going up a steep bridge at 57mph indicated and accelerating it seemed to have more power. The power increase is not dramatic, as you would expect from re-mapping the fuel management computer on a stock bike.
If you are going to heavily modify your scooter - aftermarket low restriction exhaust, ported head etc. be prepared to spend $$$ at an approved Dynojet Dynamometer tuning facility. Trying to program the unit yourself will probably result in the bike making less power.
The Dynojet site lists all the approved tuning facilities. Expect to spend 2 hours on dyno time. Call the facility in advance and ask them what they charge for dyno time and tuning. And have the cowling off so they can access the module or you will be charged dyno time for the time it takes to take the cowling off. This means riding to the dyno shop with no rear seat, no grab bar and no upper tailight cowling.
Has anyone ever drag raced one of these things? There is a 1/8th. mile NHRA strip near me and I am tempted. Can you do a burnout with a continuously variable transmission? My luck I'll be paired up with a Hyabusa :?
