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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I did the 600 mile oil change!!

I started with putting the scooter on the stand!


Then I gathered the tools needed.
A screw driver- to help get the filter out of the hole!
A socket wrench with an 8MM and a 12MM socket.
A 8MM wrench.


First I took off the lower storage box cover (the one that covers the spark plug!). Reason to follow below!


Then I started the bike for about 30 seconds or so shut it off and then took off the oil plug bolt, 12MM socket. Drained oil!


Then I took off the filter element cover. 8MM socket. Notice that I use a piece of cardboard to direct the oil to the pan!!


Here is a picture of it with the filter out!


I put the filter back in put all the bolts back in then added oil! I used one quart and then on the second quart I slowly put it in checking every so often. The left over oil measured up to the 100mL line on the bottle. So it took almost 2 quarts. Note: I was first checking the oil with the bike on the center stand. Which the oil mark was on the X closest to the full mark. I then read that I should have it on some "sort" of stand not the center stand. So we took it off the center stand and waited about 3 or so minutes and checked it again. It was right at the full mark!

Then I loosened the nut on top of the cylinder head (arrow in picture shows what bolt!) 8MM wrench! Then started the bike and waited to see oil seep out of loosend bolt. Then shut off and tightened bolt!!



It took me all of about 20 minutes to do it. Most of the time was pouring the oil in. Specially the 2nd quart. I was stopping every couple of lines and checking the oil level. Next time I know exactly how much to use so it will go faster!

I also checked all of my fluid levels, lights, horn, parking brake, and side stand safety switch. Probably took me about 30 to 40 min. to do it all!!

Tomorrow I will do the final drive oil change and check the idle speed. Friend of mine has a machine that can check the speed. I was going to just look at the rpm needle on the bike, but he said he'd bring his machine!!

With my Microsoft works software I made a service record and wrote down the mileage and date of all the stuff I did today! I will be buying a binder to keep all my receipts and records in!!

Hope this was informative enough!!
 

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Nice job, Kim! :hello1: With your clear photo instructions, I may start changing the oil myself instead of paying $50 to my local dealer!
It's a lot easier than I thought it would be. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Blexcroid said:
Nice job, Kim! :hello1: With your clear photo instructions, I may start changing the oil myself instead of paying $50 to my local dealer!
It's a lot easier than I thought it would be. 8)
$50 dollars!!!!! You lucky. I would have to dealer do it for that price!!! My dealer wants around $200. - $250!!!! Way to much to me!! I paid roughly $20. for the oil and filter. I have to change the final drive oil tonight. So all in all I'm going to say it takes roughly 30 to 45 minutes to do everything needed for the 600 mile service! Specially if you know what your doing!! To me a service tech. should be able to do the whole job in roughly 20 to 30 min.

And thanks for the compliments you guys!!
 

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Congrats and thanks for the fotos.

A word to the wise: (well, several words) Use a torque wrench to tighten the filter cover bolts. I learned the hard way, did it without one the first time and sheared one of the bolt heads off. Luckily there was enough of the bolt sticking out from the hole where I could grab it with vise grips and turn it out. Phew! Lesson learned.

Regards,
Will
 

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:shock: Thanks for the heads-up! I would have expected the filter cover to crack before a bolt head sheared off. You probably saved several of us from a similar disaster.
 

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Very much appreciate your efforts to show how to do this basic maintenance. Thank you very much.
 

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great pictures. I intend to do my second oil change myself. Bought all the supplies. Your pictures make it even easier. I would just like to know purpose of loosening bolt by spark plug. thanks, Pam
 

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yay, good to know for when I get my maj ;) (I do my own oil changes on all cars in the garage and could never imagine taking it to a shop for that...)

Couple questions-
1. Yamaha's the only source for the filter, right? Are there any aftermarket ones out there that are compatible? (I'd love to use Amsoil if they had 'em)
2. The oil -- looks like you used the YAMALUBE stuff. What's the viscosity? Is it truly advisable to use their stuff or could an automotive synthetic oil in the same viscosity work just as well? (nevermind- already addressed here: http://majestyusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=530)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
pamb said:
great pictures. I intend to do my second oil change myself. Bought all the supplies. Your pictures make it even easier. I would just like to know purpose of loosening bolt by spark plug. thanks, Pam
According to the service manual it's to make sure the oil is flowing properly!!! I just do it because the manual say's to!!!!! :D
 

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My dealership charges $110 for the oil and filter change. I bought the service agreement (sucker...) when I got my scooter, so I didn't pay anything at the time, but the cost was on the work order that I signed when I picked up my Maj afteward - took them 3 days to get it done. I wish I could undo that service agreement and extended warranty...
 

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$110 wtf good god... this procedure really doesn't sound any harder than doing an oil change on a car, how can they justify that??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
spirilis said:
$110 wtf good god... this procedure really doesn't sound any harder than doing an oil change on a car, how can they justify that??
That's exactly why I do my services myself!!! My dealer wanted around $250. to do the 600 mile service. Which is basically an oil change and final drive change. I only pay about 50 or so dollars to have my car serviced!!!!

I actually just got done (well almost, have to go buy some grease) with my 4000 mile service!!! It's basically just checking to make sure things are tight and running smoothly! Wasn't that hard! Even changed the oil for the 3000 mile oil change!! (took that long for dealer to get the filter and such!!!!!!!!!)

I just make sure I document everything and save my reciepts for the parts I have to buy!! That way I hopefully wont have any problems if there is a warranty issue!!
 

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myhrdly said:
pamb said:
great pictures. I intend to do my second oil change myself. Bought all the supplies. Your pictures make it even easier. I would just like to know purpose of loosening bolt by spark plug. thanks, Pam
According to the service manual it's to make sure the oil is flowing properly!!! I just do it because the manual say's to!!!!! :D
Kim, I can't find any mention of this bolt near the spark plug in my owners's manual. My manual is part number 5RU-28199-70.

Today I changed my oil, pulled the bolt, ran the engine, and nothing came out. I'm puzzled. Why would the service manual be different from the owner's manual, and why didn't I see oil?

EDIT: Oh, I see I by your picture that I pulled the wrong bolt. I'll get back....
 

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LOOSEN!!! She said LOOSEN! Not remove. Oil came out in quite a hurry for perhaps three or four seconds before I hit the kill switch. I wiped up that part of the mess I could get at from above and below without removing tupperware. I ran the motor for a couple of minutes and didn't see any smoking, so I'm going to leave it. I don't think that I am in danger of oiling the rear tire next time I ride.

I was having a bad day. I should not have played mechanic in this mood. Crankier than usual, if you can believe it.
 

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A funnel with a long shaft makes getting the oils into the fill holes a whole lot easier than a straw or using multiple sized funnels going into each other ( please don't ask how I know this ). Also, I had to use a flashlight to make sure the small o-ring was in it's place for the oil filter.
 

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Hi all, I did some checking Napa sells a filter for the Majesty 400. Part # PFI PS4949 About $8 but includes the O-Rings. Napa filters are made by Wix. Definate difference if you compare to Fram.
Escapemax
 

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Cruzn said:
A funnel with a long shaft makes getting the oils into the fill holes a whole lot easier than a straw or using multiple sized funnels going into each other ( please don't ask how I know this ). Also, I had to use a flashlight to make sure the small o-ring was in it's place for the oil filter.
I was about to buy a funnel w/ long shaft when I realized how bendable the funnel itself is...For the tranny refill...I just collapsed the funnel and "stuffed" it in between the wheel and rear shock...then rotated the wheel toward the tranny hole and wholla! the funnel shaft just kinda went IN to the tranny refill hole. After I was done filling with .26 qts of Yamalube 10w30 I just reversed the wheel and wholla! the funnel shaft came out!

To refill the engine oil was a LITTLE bit trickier...I collapsed the funnel and put my hand UNDER the exhaust...(Make sure the exhaust is COOL!)...came up and maneuvered the plastic funnel into place. Note: the funnel I was using is tough but still relatively collapsible so I just worked it into place until i forced the funnel shaft into the hole. I poured in 1.7 Liters of AMSOIL 20w50 and just pulled out the funnel from the top after collapsing it again.
 

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I used your pictures and instrtuctions to change my oil and they were extremely helpful. I would never have figured it out from the manual.
Thanx for your trouble.
 

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Might be worth mentioning that the drain plug and filter are on the opposite side to the dip stick, I don't think the manual mentions this.
I changed my oil and filter at the weekend which took me about 30mins, very easy to do.

Cheers and thanks for the photos.
 
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