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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took out the "pardon me, you just tried to kill me" horn and installed a "HEY JERK I"M RIDING HERE YOU KNOW" horn. Found this horn at Harbor Freight.



From the front you can' even see it, it tucks right in between the outer and inner plastic.



I used some plumbers tape to make an easy mounting bracket and found a bolt that would work.



Here is a close up. Tucked away nicely and out of sight and out of the travel path of the front forks. Let me tell you this thing will get peoples attention!!!

 

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Hey Dasdman,
Does that bad boy list a decibel rating? Do your lights dim when you push the horn button ? :lol: ? Was it like WAY expensive ? Any clearance issues since riding after install ? Thanks for sharing !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Scootin,
It did not list a decibel rating anywhere on the package. It looks identical to the Stebel air horn that is sold at Twisted Throttle the Stebel.11185 which says its 139db. It even came with all of the same accesories that are shown at TT with the horn, I would not be surprised at all that they are built by the same company somewhere in Korea or China.

I bought mine at Harbor Frieght and of course it was on sale...I don't think I have ever bought anything at Harbor Frieght that wasn't on sale :D . I paid $34.95.

No it doesn't dim the lights :lol: . It did blow the 10A fuse when I laid on it for 5 seconds. I installed a 15A fuse in its place and it works fine. I don't think this is a big issue as its not one of those power draws that is on all of the time, just short bursts a few times a year. I will however install the relay that comes with the horn, they have you wire it direct to the battery with a 20A fuse in the line.

No clearance issues at all as long as you don't mind not being able to turn right :lol: ...jk...it fits into a little cavity between the outside and inside plastic. I have about 1.5" clearance at the closest point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Dave,
Yes I did use the existing horn button. I realize that this horn is going to draw a bit more current than the stock unit but....its not one of those things that is on all of the time...like say, the headlight switch. Even if I do burn out the switch within 1000 uses I figure that is the life of the scooter as often as the button is used. That is of course if I stop using it just to show people how loud it is!! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well after reading Scootin's post I went and checked...yes it did dim the lights when the horn was honked. That prompted me to run a wire to the battery and install the relay that came with the horn. I still use the original horn button, but all that it does is provide ground. Hard to believe, but the horn is even louder now. The direct feed from the battery has made a big difference in sound. If you are thinking about installing something like this I would highly recommend installing the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Ron, Yes. They do not provide a fuse, however recommend an inline 20A fuse be installed. No big deal. Couple of dollars at any auto parts store. I just so happened to have one already in the garage.
 

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I have one of the Stebel horns and I have been trying to figure out where to mount it. I'll see how it does in that location. I switched out the stock horn with an aftermarket horn that I had put on my motorcycle. It is a little louder but I really want this GET THE HE** OUT OF MY WAY horn.
 

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A relay is a switching device that uses a small electrical current to control a much larger current in a second circuit. In other words, a relay routes power to a circuit or component when it is turned on. They are commonly found parts at auto parts stores, Radio Shack, etc.

Relays are typically used for components that draw a large current such as the headlights, rear window defogger, fuel pump, A/C compressor clutch, cooling fan(s), heater & A/C blower fan, ABS system, the ignition circuit, even the power windows, seats and horn.

A relay is nothing more than a small rectangular box (usually plastic but may also be metal) with a magnetic coil, armature and set of contact points inside. There are typically four or five spade terminals on the bottom of the relay, and the cover may or may not have a simple wiring schematic or other identification printed on it.

When voltage is applied to the coil inside the relay, the coil creates a strong magnetic field and pulls the armature down to close the contact points. This allows voltage to pass through the output side of the relay to the device it controls. A good example of a relay is what is used in many cars to create the flashing circuit for turn signals or 4-way flashers. The relay is energized, allowing current to flow through and energise the appropriate turn signal lights (thus lighting them) and stops the current flow when the relay is not energized (the lights go out). The relay is what coordinates the 4-way flashers so all of them flash simultaneously. The "clickling" that you hear from the turn signal is from the relay! Thats' why some cars have a very audible click and others are nearly silent. :wink:

Relays need to be sized based upon the voltage they are expected to trip at and carry. Too small of a relay for the voltage it is expected to carry will allow the relay to burn up or short internally. This can cause a fire!

Relays 101
Automotive Relays
Wiring relays

Hope this helps!
 

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Yeah, I bought one yesterday, $44.95. It's my project for today.
By the way, the package says they are made in Italy.
The horn comes with a relay, you need to buy a fuse holder (highly recommend the waterproof type) and a 20 amp fuse.
I put in a low tone Fiamm horn which is way better than the stocker, and rarely use the horn but some moron in a Dodge Ram decided the road belonged to him instead of some fool on a scooter Tuesday and almost ran me off the road. Now I want a horn that sounds like a thermonuclear detonation! :evil:
Oh yeah you also need some wire, minimum 16 gauge (the lower the number the thicker the wire).
 

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Believe it or not, but so far I have had no one act as if they didn't see me. Well, once, but I short honk of my stock horn got her to stop and look my way (she may have just been pulling up a bit, but I wasn't taking any chances). I'm just hoping the first time happens after I have a bit more experience and practice, but before I get careless (so that I never do).

Has anyone had an experience where they used the stock horn and it was ignored?
 

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Chris, in a unique answer to your question, in almost 500 miles of city driving I've never even had to use my horn. It seems the super bright headlights are keeping me nice and visable.

My father, as a casual outside observer, told me my Majesty's stock horn is louder, after I honked my 110db Harley horn that I had installed on my Vino and the stock horn on the Majesty.

Something someone told me about super loud horns....they aren't always safer, as honking a super loud horn next to a cager who doesn't expect it might cause him to overreact and run right into you or into someone else simply because you scared the crap out of him.

Until I see my stock horn ignored, I'll stick with it.

EDIT: I'm going to take that back with one exception, I had an idiot pull into my lane, albeit we were both going slow, and had I had my head up my butt I would have hit him. I honked and got no reaction. About 500 feet down the road he proceeded to attempt a left turn from a "straight only" lane. This guy was either totally lost or a total idiot, to which no horn would have helped.
 

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Well, I just got the thing installed and I have to say it is THE horn for hooligans. It's loud with ear muffs on! 139 decibels is permanent hearing loss territory. Makes the Fiamm sound whisper quiet.
I'm going to have to be careful using this thing because it really is super-loud.
The install is a little on the tedious side. You have to put it on the right side - the front bowl is assymetrical and there is no room on the left.
I made an aluminum bracket that bolted to the horn and a frame bolt.
Bolted the relay to the original horn bracket screw - clearance is very tight here but makes a clean install. It also lets you plug the original horn connectors straight to the relay. Ran a 16 gauge wire zip tied to the main wire harness on the left side to the battery and attached a 20 amp fuse in a waterproof holder. It takes forever to remove the side tupperware to run one darn wire to the battery. But you must do it.

Folks, use the relay and fuse if you install this, as it draws over 15 amps.
An electrical fire and/or sudden complete engine failure while riding is not fun and is very possible when using inadequate wiring. You don't need anything louder unless you own a freight train.
 
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