Recommended oil

15129 Views 15 Replies 13 Participants Last post by hotshoetom, Jun 18, 2006

zero260

Discussion Starter · Dec 2, 2005

My first attempt at posting didn't work, so I'll try again.

I was wondering what the recommended weight of oil is for the Majesty (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.)? This would affect whether or not I would use an automotive oil, such as Mobil 1 synthetic, rather than a motorcycle specific oil. I'll keep this one short in case it doesn't work.

Thanks

Bob

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

myhrdly

· #2 · Dec 2, 2005

The owners manual suggests Yamalube 4, SAE10w30 or SAE20w40. It say's recommended engine oil grade: API service SE, SF, SG type or higher. ( What ever that means!!) It has a chart for the temp. range that you ride. It looks like if you ride in 10 degrees to 90 degrees use 10w30, if temp is 5 degrees to 120 degrees use 20w40. The chart is kinda weird and I'm not positive I'm typing it out right, but I gave it a try!!

I ride in 44 degrees up to 100 degrees or so, and I just bought the Yamalube 20w40. The dealer didn't tell me I was buying the wrong stuff so I figure I should be safe!! I bought the filter from them too and he checked to see how much oil I would need, that's why I figured he would say something about the grade of oil if it was wrong!! Like I say, temp. chart is kinda confusing in the owners manual!!

God did that just confuse everybody or what!!! :shock:

Kim

myhrdly

· #3 · Dec 3, 2005

Here is a picture of whats in the owners manual!!

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HRHQMaj

· #4 · Dec 3, 2005

I live in Canada. For winter, I use Castrol full synthetic 5W-50.
For summer, Mobil 1 Redcap (15W-50).
(However, during the break-in period, I used non-synth oil, Castrol 4-T 10W40)

zero260

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 4, 2005

Thanks for your replies.

HRHQ -- Since the manual gives an upper oil weight specification of 40, aren't you afraid that an oil with an upper weight of 50 could possibly get too thick at operating temperature? The Majesty engine really spins (high rpm) at crusing speed. Do you think there's a possiblity that an oil that thickens to a 50 weight might possibly impede the flow of oil through the engine?

Also, since the lower weight specification of 5W(for the Castrol) is lower than that specified by the manual, would this mean that the oil could possibly be too thin in the first few minutes of operation when cold to give adequate protection?

Of course the safe bet is to do what MyHrdly did and stick with Yamalube--at least to insure there's no warranty issues. I found Yamalube offered on a web site for sale by the case--costing about $4/qt--before shipping. It didn't say anything about being synthetic, so I presume it is just regular mineral oil. That's a pretty high price to pay for mineral oil. Especially when you can buy automotive synthetic oil for little more than that per quart.

Oil is an interesting, but complex, subject. I've heard Shell Rotella T is an excellent oil for motorcycles. Their regular Rotella is a 15W-40, so it would seem to fall in the correct weight range. However, it is a "plain" mineral oil. They also make a synthetic, however, its low weight specification is 5W, so once again, it might be a little thin at start up and in the first few minutes of operation. They have a web site with a lot of information on it and you can pose a question to their oil expert. I might do that and see what he says. If I do, I'll let you'all know what he said.

Thanks again---Bob

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HRHQMaj

· #6 · Dec 4, 2005

Hi, Bob; Discussing oil is like discussing religion or politics. :?: (endless)
I only wished to tell you MY choice.
I made my choice after countless hours of reading on the topic.
I hate to say this, but your idea about how oil "behaves" is off the mark.
So, with all due respect, may I suggest: Google>motorcycle oil
Have fun getting YOUR oil edumenecashun !!

(I apologize if I sound not too helpful; but I made a vow to myself I won't spend too much time on the topic again.. hint..hint.)

Rubble

· #7 · Dec 4, 2005

Personally, I find that the whole - which oil? - debate creates more confusion that it eliminates.
I've used cheap no-name oil and I've used expensive, exclusive brands. I've used regular oil, synthetic blends and full synthetic. On the odd occasion I've been forced to add a different viscosity oil to an engine to get me by or to add regular oil to synthetic. I've used Yamalube in an Arctic Cat, I've used Suzuki oil in a Honda. I've mixed Quaker State with Castrol etc.
I have never had an engine failure, I ride my toys hard and I keep my cars and trucks for a long time (8-10 years, high mileage). I've never been afraid to sell anything to a friend nor have I heard of anything that I've sold having a premature meltdown. The one thing I do with everything motorized that I own is change the oil and filter regularly.
To that end here is my advice: If you are unsure of what oil to use, go to your dealer and by the brand and viscosity recommended in your owners manual. Change your oil at the manufacturers recommended intervals. Keep your receipts. Ride. Smile

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SpeedDemon77

· #8 · Dec 5, 2005

Mobil 1 10-30 here. I've run Mobil 1 in all my bikes for years including race bikes and never had any problems. Mobil 1!

Tifighter

· #9 · Dec 16, 2005

I have seen so many crazy threads on cycle forums about oil that it all seems out of control. The most important thing, I believe, is just to keep an eye on it and check the level regularly. Change the oil per the recommended intervals. Wash you Maj often so you look good on it.

Myself, I have chosen to use Rotella T Synthetic and pay heed to those service intervals. The only general agreement out there seems to be to avoid the newer 'energy conserving' car oils (ILSAC-4 rated, I believe) out there as the friction modifiers may create some clutch/transmission issues somewhere down the road. It also may not, but with so many choices, I figure I might as well use something else and be safe.

A little snooping on google will give a crazy amount of info on this stuff and everything on the internet is true. So, if you're snowed in one day...

Greg

· #10 · Dec 16, 2005

Most if not all scooter have dry clutch and no tranmisssion (that needs oil)

Except Burgman 650 runs wet clutch ...

So any good oil in the right range will do

If you use synthetic oil go 5,000klms on mineral oil first

Greg ...

CajunBass

· #11 · Dec 16, 2005

I use Wally World 10-30. It costs about a buck and a quarter a quart. Why? Because it fits in that chart quite well for the area where I live, and because I've used that in my Kia Sportage for 150,000 miles with not a problem, and it doesn't use a drop of oil.

I've used all kinds of oils over the years, and I have NEVER had an oil related failure with anything. Automobiles, trucks, outboard motors (2 strokes) lawn mowers and so on. I pretty much use the Wally Mart stuff in eveything these days. I don't know who actually refines it, but they seem to have a good product.

YMMV

DougThompson

· #12 · Jan 17, 2006

I agree. Some people swear by one brand, some another. But I've used it all I guess over the eons. Just keep it clean, and in the case of the Majesty you can go for some time between oil filters. I will change my oil every 2 or 3 K regardless because it takes so little. Cheap insurance.

Rode to Radio Shack and return today, about 5 miles.

Gosh, won't Spring EVER get here ??????

DougThompson
Pikeville, Kentucky

glennd

· #13 · Jan 23, 2006

Bob, the winter weight is the higher #. I.E., 10w30 is 30 weight when cold. Once the engine reaches operationg temp, it'll be the thinner weight rating. Cajun, you're absolutely right. The supertech is a good oil. I've run it for 190,000 miles in my toyota/Chevy crossbreed without incident and it still comes out quite clean when changed. I do use the synthetic blend, but have come to the conclusion it's good stuff. The Briggs motors get the straight 30 and it's dinasour oil. They've never complained either. :lol: St Luke 2:47 And all that heard him were astonished at his understanding and answers.

aa6vh

· #14 · Jan 23, 2006

glennd said:
Bob, the winter weight is the higher #. I.E., 10w30 is 30 weight when cold. Once the engine reaches operationg temp, it'll be the thinner weight rating. Cajun, you're absolutely right. The supertech is a good oil. I've run it for 190,000 miles in my toyota/Chevy crossbreed without incident and it still comes out quite clean when changed. I do use the synthetic blend, but have come to the conclusion it's good stuff. The Briggs motors get the straight 30 and it's dinasour oil. They've never complained either. :lol: St

Sorry, but its the other way around. The first, lower number is the "cold" weight, and the second higher number the "warm" weight. So 10w-30 acts like 10w oil when cold, and like 30w oil when warm.

texascycle

· #15 · May 8, 2006

I just switched to Amsoil 10w40 fully synthetic motorcycle oil in both the motor and tranny ... few hundred miles down and running great so far. I do not believe there is a "correct" answer on the oil debate, but as already stated, keep it clean and it will last as long as it should. It just so happens that I did not have enough for my next FZ1 change and I am going to be switching to the 20w50 for the summer temps ... but with less than 3 qts, the Majesty engine and tranny was topped off (filter change, too) and eager to tug that vbelt.

hotshoetom

· #16 · Jun 18, 2006

I tend to ride in all kinds of weather, from down below freezing in the winter to above 90 in the summer. I chose the Amsoil 0w-40 because it will flow better at the low temperatures and assure me of adequate lubrication in cold weather and also in very hot weather. The amsoil is a good product and have used it with no complaints in anything I own. I will be changing the oil filter at 2500 miles and the oil at 5000 after the bike is out of warranty. I did the initial change to synthetic at the first indicated service interval...600 miles. 90% of the engine's breakin is complete by then and I want this thing to last until I retire at least. I am 53 by the way. I use the same lube in the final drive too. So it costs me a little less than $25.00 to change oil, filter and final drive. Over the course of an average year's riding, that is less than $100. Over the last year I have ridden about 9000 miles.

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