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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The new fuel pump was purchased from this eBay seller for £30 much cheaper than having to get the complete unit at £255

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290972567786

WARNING!!! - When doing anything with the fuel tank you should disconnect the battery, remove any ignition sources from your work area, make sure your work area is well ventilated and then drain the fuel in to a safe container. Also make sure you have some where to put the pump unit on to like a piece of corrugated cardboard and/or clean rags as there will be about 100ml of fuel inside which will spill out.

First off these are the only tools I used (Missed off a flat headed screw driver :roll: )



My 2008 TMax MKIII



Lift the seat and undo the two screws



Push up the rear top panel until the clips pop out and then slide it backwards as it hooks on to the rear light group.





Next the grab bars, I use an allen key as shown and the pliers to manipulate it to loosen it off, then unscrew with just the allen key.



Once near the top of the recess they can be undone by hand which is necessary for the one by the seat hinge. Take both grab bars off.





The side panels on the foot well have two screws towards the front and one hidden behind the foot peg, undo these and with both hands pry off the panel from where the green arrows point. It is only clipped at the top and comes off fairly easily. Do this for both sides.





Undo the three push pins. Poke the centre with a the point of a cross head screw driver then pull the pin out.



Pull the black plate the rear light group down to unclip it.



Undo these two screws and the two on the opposite side of the TMax



Undo the two screws



Unclip the panel and bring the screw hole part to the front of the tank panel on both sides of the TMax



Stand at the back and push the rear side panels out carefully but firmly and wiggle the rear towards you until you can get to the connector circled in green and disconnect that. Then continue to pull the whole rear section off. You do not need to detach the light group.





Undo this small screw and remove the switch that turns off the under seat storage light when the seat is down.



Put the seat down and loosen off the 4 screws that secure the hinge, then raise the seat and support it with one hand whilst undoing the four screws completely.



You should now be at this stage



At the handlebars undo these three screws.



Then undo these two screws.



Undo these two bullet connectors.



Look under the storage section above the wheel/number plate on the right side and remove the connectors for the storage compartment light.



Undo these four dome nuts



This releases the rear mud guard, and also remove the two push pins (one either side... forgot they were there)



Undo the two screws that hold the rubber cover over the fuel line and connector for the pump unit



Undo this screw visible in the foot well and its twin on the other side of the TMax.



And also undo this bolt, this is the last part that hold the outer tank cover on.



Now disconnect the power lead to the fuel pump.



Back to the storage section, remove the cover in the bottom and undo these four bolts.



Then undo these four that hold the clamp that unlocks the seat.



Over to the right side of the TMax behind the tank you'll find this screw, undo it.



And back to the storage thing again and undo these two screws and the two on the other side of the TMax.



Then undo these two bolts



Slide out the fuel line and the spillage line, also disconnecting it, from the frame of the tank.



Stand on the left side of the scooter and lift up the storage seat and push it towards the far side, the fuel lines are still looped through part of this section so don't just lift it out.



Squeeze the single clip and wiggle this out, then grab a rag and use it to grip either side of the fuel line connector and squeeze/wriggle free then catch as much fuel as possible in the rag (a teaspoon full at most)



Now lift off that annoying cover and feed the fuel and power lines out, then find somewhere to hook the fuel line in an upright position as this stops fuel from spilling out. (I left my keys in the ignition, that loop came in handy)



Next comes the fuel pump, undo the six screws, they should not be very tight. and carefuly with draw the pump unit. You have to carefully rotate the unit out being careful of the float.



I left a clean(ish) rag on top of the tank to stop dirt/moisture getting inside.



The pump unit, pump is actually on the other side.



Pull these two connectors off for the pump, you can't get them mixed up as they are two different widths.



The bottom section of the unit with the strainer/filter is clipped on at three points, carefully pry one clip up whilst pushing the section up with your other hand. whilst holding it up work on a second one. (That metal ring the arrow is pointing to, needs to come off after this and don't loose it like I did)



With two off it should come of easily, if not work on the third clip whilst holding the opposite side up so it doesn't clip back in place.



Once released the bottom should slide off pulling the electric pump out.



The bottom of the pumps, old one on the left.



Top of the pumps, old one on the left. You see that rubber ring on the old one? You'll need that.



That ring... I lost the original one and neither of the filters (just generics) that come with the pump are for the TMax, one of this came with a new metal ring but its too big... the other filter of the two has one built into it so I sliced it open and stole it and that is what the green arrow is pointing to here so now the old filter (Which was still in very good condition) is secured on. With out that ring secured to the actual pump the filter and bottom of the unit just falls off the pump.



Oh and that rubber ring on the old pump remove it and put it on the new one :)



Then slot the pump into the unit, secure the three clips, and work in reverse.

The pump does have a higher pitch when the ignition is turned on, according to yamaha the OEM pump is 2.5 Bar where as this pump has and operational pressure of 3 Bar, this may account for the higher pitch when it runs through self diagnostic when ignition is turned on. When the engine is running you can't hear it.

This took me about 3.5 hours total to do.
 

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You didn't take a photo of the "complete unit" with the new pump motor in it???????????????????????????? :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it looked identical, there was no point :)

I can't see a difference... they were the same height, same configuration of knobby bits, everything. Well except the OEM pump had made in china written on it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its not paint, I vinyl wrapped it :)

Took my TMax for a 20 mile run today, the first since changing the pump yesterday, all I can say is 'Woooowwwwww' :twisted:

I probably should have changed it in the summer back when its started to feel slightly off and when the old pump had a couple of failed starts. For several months acceleration on throttle twist felt slower (even with Dr P's) but I just put it down to me getting used to it and not feeling the thrill as much. All that thrill is back and I can only guess the pump has been struggling all this time getting worse. I barely need to twist the the throttle and the acceleration is nuts, might also have something to do with the standard pumps operation pressure being 2.5 Bar and the new pump being 3 Bar. But right now I am not complaining, hopefully my mpg will improve as it had dropped to about 140 miles per about 11 litres and when I first had her she was doing about 180 miles to the fuel amount.
 

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funkycowie said:
it looked identical, there was no point :)

I can't see a difference... they were the same height, same configuration of knobby bits, everything. Well except the OEM pump had made in china written on it.

Was the new pump made in Japan???
 

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Very nice write up. Thanks for posting it. Please let us know if, down the road, TMF ever reoccurs. If you've solved it with just a motor replacement that would be very important information in figuring out the TMF cause conundrum. :?
Thanks.
p.s. interesting color scheme.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Took it for another spin today... wow, its like my TMax has a whole new lease of life, rode over 100 miles in heaven :D

PS. You can't tell from the picture but the white is a white/blue pearlescent finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Filled up today for the second time, when I did the pump change I let my fuel tank go almost empty to make the change easier. Filled up and didn't pay attention to how much fuel used... however this time round I put in 11 litres having done 135 miles. This new found acceleration (Dr Pulley 15g as well) is rather addicting and likely not very fuel efficient.

The tank holds 15 litres or 3.3 gallons (UK) or 3.96 gallons (US), so using 11 litres over 135 miles I have managed 55 mpg (UK) or 45 mpg (US)

Maybe I'll try a more sedate run on the next fill up as I kind of ruined this one already :D

But the new pump is great :D

:wav:
 

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I average about 47 MPG (US) with 16.5gm Dr. Pulley's and hard riding. You're probably not off by much. But it IS FUN to HAUL BUTT!
 

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Excellent write-up, and pics. What a pain to get to the pump, just like getting to the variator and drive belt. Yamaha should have made routine maintenance much easier on the TMAX. Not that replacing the fuel pump should be routine.

Nice of you to share, and document, so it will be easier for others, that's what's great about forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I had 3 occasions where the pump refused to work and pressurize the system after a long ride, it took about 1 hour for the scoot to cool down enough for me to start it. So yes I believe it did have TMax fever.
 

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I think my fuel pump died today. Lucky for me, it was outside my barn where I store it. Nothing worse than to be all dressed up for a party, and you can't go. :shock: First 70 degree day of the year, and after setting the record for the most rain in any March in history (11.9" at my house) I was pumped to be out. Nothing like pushing a Tmax "up hill". :roll:

Tried to fire on the first piston ready to go, but then it just stopped. It almost sounded like the starter was no longer engaged, but I would feel "puffs" of air coming out the exhaust pipe.

Fuel pump runs when it's suppose to, but I don't think it's putting out any pressure. Will have to pull some plastic and see what's up under the hood. It was close to an oil change and 20k service, so I guess I will do that too.

On the last couple of times out, Rosie hesitated on the throttle when a light changed, and again when I was making a RH turn after stopping. Slow to respond to the throttle on the ride before. Since she has been a victim of TMF from the very start, it may be a good idea to just change it out and be done with it. :x
 

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Good luck on the repair. For YOU, it should be a piece of cake! :lol:

Are you going with an OEM pump assembly? Our Tmax500 pumps have been superseded to the new 530's part number. If you follow the European Forums, even the 530s are having some heat-related pump failures. I think Funky had the right idea in changing it to an aftermarket one, especially if you get a Japanese, not Chinese, one. Apparently his runs at a full 3bar pressure and kicks BUTT!

I'm considering buying one and carrying it in a tool kit for the Sierras trip, as insurance... :roll:
 
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