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The Majesty manual says that after 12,000 miles the V-belt should be replaced. From your experience, how many additional miles I can get from my belt, running under normal conditions, before it breaks?
 

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It varies and there is really no way of knowing how many "extra" miles you can get. I've had two belts fail on me with no warning, stranding me miles from home, and I now have it replaced soon after the recommended mileage. Going beyond the recommendation is a gamble I no longer take.

A belt can look fine and still measure within specs but be weak internally. I believe heat buildup inside the transmission casing deteriorates the rubber over time. Both times my belts failed they literally disintegrated, leaving nothing but strands of fiber, small rubber chunks and a lot of rubber dust.
 

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There is also more than breaking. The belt wears on the sides. It can look perfect but when it has worn too much it will no longer work.
From the wear on my last two belts I would suspect that the absolute maximum would likely be less than 20,000 miles.
In addition to heat & flexing there are also enviourmental factors such as smog. I might expect that you could get more mileage if you ride a lot because the belt would not be exposed to such factors as long.
I am glad to hear that there was no damage to the bike when the belts broke.
 

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Knock on wood......

My first belt went 18000 miles before I changed it, currently I am at 33000 miles and planning on waiting until 36000 miles to change it again. This time I plan on doing it myself, along with examining the clutch and the rollers.

Remember, YMMV
 

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I too changed my belt at 18,000 and was told that it still had quite a bit of life left in it. I guess it depends on the "way" one rides their Majesty. If you ride it hard and push it then it only makes sense that wear and tear would happen sooner. If you only push it hard on occasion and routinely ride it at a moderate level than parts will last a bit longer. Maybe I'm completely wrong but intuitively it seems to make sense. 8)
 

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Just over a week ago I changed my original belt at 16,000 miles. Mine is daily driven. belt was "thinner" compared to the new belt. I did not measure it when I did the change. I ride normal, its a scooter not a crotch rocket.
 

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West of the Cascades said:
were the belts that broke stock or the kevlar aftermarket belts?
They were the stock OEM belts.
 

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I changed mine not too long after the light went on. Its one of the maintenance items a user can comfortably change.

As far as how long can you go, it depends on if you are comfortable walking and have a trailer! If I was going to have a dealer do it I would have gone a whole lot further, a whole lot more miles, probably to the point of either breaking or complaining.

I probably had the wrong idea when I bought my majesty, "since it is a scooter it should be economical to service". Boy was I wrong. Today I don't even consider a majesty a scooter, to me a scooter is still a step thru with a flat floor...no hump. Should see mine where I have the top of hump all scratched from dragging my feet over it. The line between a motorcycle and a scooter has been bent in both directions.
 

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I changed my original belt at 17000 miles. Measuring it and guessing, I think it had about 5000 more miles to go before it would measure below spec. However, that doesn't mean it would. Belt looks structurally ok but who knows what is inside? I will change this belt at about the same interval. Granted, I took it more than spec and it still 'looks' good but I think 5k over is as far as I'm comfortable with. I periodically go into the tranny just to inspect the components and sand off the clutch shoes to get better performance. When I do, I go over the belt as well. This belt now has over 11k on it and still measures within spec and shows minimal wear. Maintenance goes a long way.
 

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ax1464 said:
...I believe heat buildup inside the transmission casing deteriorates the rubber over time. ...
That's probably right and it got me thinking about that third air filter no one seems to bother replacing. A clogged filter means less air flow and therefore poorer cooling...
 

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Checked my belt today (23,000Km). It's just 1mm narrower than new (29mm as opposed to 30mm - way above the 27mm wear limit) and it looks very good. It's going back in for another 20,000Km. The new one I bought will be carried on long trips as a just-in-case spare.

The filter is totally clogged and will be replaced with foam. Just deliberating whether to use real filter foam or just a sponge.
 

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Yeah I never thought about it but that small 3rd air filter is probably key to your V-belt's life. Has anyone done a Unifoam mod on that one? I understand the one thing you'd want to avoid is any sort of oil... but would the foam by itself work?
 

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I'll probably do the UniFoam mod. The standard size foam that I bought is good for two sets of engine filters plus one transmission filter. I have two densities and their combined thickness is very close to the OEM.

As for oiling this filter, I don't think it's critical. You can keep it dry just to be safe or oil it but make damn sure all the extra oil is squeezed out of it. I might do just that, but haven't decided yet.
 

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Well, replaced the OEM transmission filter with UNIfoam (one layer coarse, one fine), oiled it with some generic filter oil, squeezed the oil out thoroughly and installed. Rode for 30Km without any issues.

In order to prevent the foam from being sucked in, I drilled a few small holes at the edge of the filter body and weaved some thin brass wire through them to create a holding barrier (one lengthwise, two over the with). This way I'll be able to pull the foam out for cleaning without unscrewing the filter body :).
 

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Vlad said:
ax1464 said:
...I believe heat buildup inside the transmission casing deteriorates the rubber over time. ...
That's probably right and it got me thinking about that third air filter no one seems to bother replacing. A clogged filter means less air flow and therefore poorer cooling...
The owners manual pg 6-22
5. Lightly tap the V-belt case filter element to remove most of the dust & dirt, and then blow out the dirt with compressed air as shown.
6. Check the V-belt case air filter element for damage and replace it IF NECESSARY.

The other air filters are too encrusted with grime to clean.
 

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gruntled said:
The owners manual pg 6-22
That's pretty vague. Granted, the V-belt filter is less critical so it requires less attention/maintenance, but since I'm getting my hands dirty/oily anyway I'll clean it in the same manner and at the same time as I do the air intake filters. All UNIfoam all the way :).

gruntled said:
The other air filters are too encrusted with grime to clean.
They looked all more/less the same to me. Air filters a little more oily than V-belt, but all equally clogged with dust/dirt. We'll see how UNIfoam will behave, but I don't foresee problems cleaning them in a kerosene/gasoline tub.
 

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It's primarily a wear issue but time & other conditions (smog for just one example) have an effect on rubber. You could have tires or fan belts sitting around that have never been used but a long period of time could make them unuseable.
 

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YOU HAVE BOUGHT UP A GOOD POINT GRUNTLED. i think time is a good point also. Just because you have done no milage on the dashboard doesnt excuse a oil change time versus milage over time shit oil and maintenance is cheap,So to are belts.So like me with a low milage 2006 model with 40000kms it should be on the second belt. I bet it is still on its original so it is a no brainer.
 
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