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What to look for when buying used. And the Break-in Debate.

3915 Views 11 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  motofeast
I'm really interested in this "other way" of breaking in a bike, as explained in the link:


He stresses the importance of putting significant load on the engine for brief periods to make sure the seals set, and I believe what the guy writes. I had a bad experience once breaking in a new car by going very easy on the engine at first, and I found that it never came up to the performance it should have.

That brings me to where I'm at now as I'm looking for a used Majesty. What would you ask a previous owner about his break-in method. Am I going to be uninterested in a bike that has been broken in exactly as stated in the manual, and keep hunting around for the lone dog who used this other method. Is a compression test going to show how successful the break-in was? Should I be able to feel it just by getting on the bike and test riding?

Even aside from the break-in philosophy, what questions and tests would you go through if you were hunting for a used Maj? What other things would you check, now that you know your own scoot?

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First. To quote someone from another scooter forum "ride it like you stole it". I rode my bike, pretty much from the get go, like it was broken in. I followed the manufacturers advice for maybe the first 150-200 miles (good time to allow for tire break in), after that, I busted her out.

When testing the Majesty, the bike should have, what some would call, a slow start (I call it a controlled start). The top end will surprise you, especially for a 400 cc motor. I went for a ride earlier today and hit 90 indicated on the highway!!!

It's a great bike. Good luck with your search.
The ride it like you stole it is working great with my Majesty. On my previous motorcycles I broke it in per manual and I can feel it is not quite that strong from the get go.

Not with my latest ride. I let it rip most of the time, only to slow down because of the winter road conditions here. I can feel the motor loosening up, and by the seat of the pants dyno this scoot even with only 366 miles on it has some mojo to go.

I read that article above as well, and now if lucky enough to afford new bikes will always break it in fast.
i took it easy on mine for the first tank or so, just to be sure everything was ok. then just rode like normal. never had any problems does not use a drop of oil (ive done over 8000km (5000mi) now since i bought it new 4 months ago.

i believe that motoman is onto something with his break-in suggestions.

as for what to look for in sa second hand maj 400 ?
i would be checking thinks like the condition of the tupperware (good indication if it's been dropped or not) also ask for service history, ie reciepts etc.....

The only reason I took it easy on mine, was that I didn't know how to ride it. Otherwise I figure if you're going to blow it up, blow it up under warranty.
Braden said:
What would you ask a previous owner about his break-in method. Am I going to be uninterested in a bike that has been broken in exactly as stated in the manual, and keep hunting around for the lone dog who used this other method. Is a compression test going to show how successful the break-in was? Should I be able to feel it just by getting on the bike and test riding?

I doubt that you will ever get the 'real' truth about how someone broke in the bike they are trying to sell. No matter how it was done most people will say they took it easy as that is what most buyers want to hear and that is the response most likely to help the sale. If you tell them you are looking for a machine that was broken in the other way I'll bet many sellers will tell you that's how it was done, after all they are trying to make a sale.
I honestly wouldn't let the break in dictate if a machine was worthy of being bought or not. Rather, I think it simply gives a person some peace of mind knowing that if a bike was run harder during break-in that it wasn't damaged internally and it's life expectancy wasn't lowered considerably.
The simple modification of installing lighter variator wieghts will give a noticeable improvement in accelleration if you desire. Remember this is a 400cc scooter, not a track ready bike like an R6 or CBR600RR where those tiny, tiny increases in performance mean so much towards winning a race or at least bragging rights.
Buy a used Majesty, don't be overly concerned about how it was broken in, but smile about the fact that the seller took the hit on the depreciation.

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Similar to the oil discussions, break in can be just as elusive when it comes to reality. I have always subscribed to the "treat her nice when she is young" theory and have always had good results. I do not mope around, I just ride normal but try to avoid excessive speeds, especially extended periods. That being said, I have never met or heard of anyone complaining of a broken motor from going WOT on any machine be it motorcyle, scooter or car when the machine is brand new.

The theory is that a new motor grinds itself down to the perfect fit but along the way it can cause excessive heat which can cause engine seizure or bad badly burned rings or valves. However, the reason for grinding is based on older engine producing methods and supposedly is not suspect in the newer Japanese engines. I do not know if this is absolutely true, so out of caution for motor, transimission and tires I take it easy for the first few hundred miles on any machine. Not to mention it is not a bad idea to ride easy until you get to know the characteristics.

So in short do not do the following while the bike is new:

- Do not run the motor to overheating
- Do not lean to far
- Do not run full throttle for long periods of time
- Do not give full braking under a hundred miles
- Do not give rides to folks until you are familiar with the handling
- Do not let others ride your cool scoot
- Do not let cops catch you
- Do not put too much cargo under the seat
- Do not race every Honda Civic you see
- Do not waste your $$ on Super Unleaded
- Do not hesitate to have fun on the best scoot in its class
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Well, taking it easy for the first few hundred miles cannot be done by me.

I have flyed away from traffic on the freeway wot.

Pretend its a drag race on stoplights sometimes, I think I have surprised quite a few cars.

Paid zero attention the how high rmp I do.

Only one cautious thought has ever come to my mind during break in. Dont not spend more than 15 mins at one speed.
I broke in my Majesty exactly as described by Mototune. Luckily I was on a deserted strech of highway. Once the engine was warm I would slow down to 40 or so then wrench the throttle wide open and go up to 110mph indicated. 36 miles home from the dealer I changed the oil - which was shiny with aluminum dust. So far no problems.
I also changed the final drive oil at 138 miles and it was filthy with metal dust. I think the 600 mile oil change is a joke. I have built race car engines and the first time you fire it up you check for leaks, let it warm up - and then immediately change the oil & filter. The next oil & filter change comes at 100 miles.
When i Buy my majesty im going to break it in hard but does anyone know wherew to get the performance variator weights?
Please give link
MotorCycleLover400 said:
When i Buy my majesty im going to break it in hard but does anyone know wherew to get the performance variator weights?
Please give link

Look under Product Overview. You'll have to figure out what weight you want to use.
CBR600RR is a great high performance bike and capable of doing almost everything; Honda CBR600RR ABS is a member of famous CBR series of Honda which is well known for its performance and racing spirit. Honda introduced CBRF series motorcycles firstly in 2003. The CBR600RR platform was derived from RC211V MotoGP bike. It is the upper model featuring ABS of base CBR600RR. It is a powerful Super sport bike that delivers breath holding performance with helmets. The fuel economy is 17.5 km/l. The base model is priced at US $11,199 where as CBR600RR ABS is priced at US $12,199

Its in-line four, four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC 600 cc engine produces the maximum power [email protected] 13,500 RPM and generates the maximum torque of [email protected],250 RPM. Honda has greatly emphasized on its weight in fact, it is the lightest of all the 600cc bikes of Honda. Honda has engineered Dual Stage Fuel Injection system with 40mm throttle bodies in this bike to boost its performance. Its revolutionary electronically-controlled Combined ABS designed especially for racing hence is superior.

Its features are as explained below:

Engine and transmission:
Displacement: 600cc
Engine type: In-line four, four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC
Compression ratio: 12.2:1
Bore x stroke: 67.0 x 42.5 mm (2.6 x 1.7 inches)
Valves per cylinder: 4
Fuel system: Injection. Dual Stage Fuel Injection (DSFI) Fuel control:
Ignition: Computer-controlled digital transistorized
Gearbox: 6-speed
Final drive: Chain

Seat height: 820 mm
Wheelbase: 1,369 mm

Brakes and wheels
Front suspension: 41mm inverted HMAS cartridge fork with spring-preload
Rear suspension: Unit Pro-Link HMAS single shock with spring preload
Front: 120/70-ZR17
Rear: 180/55-ZR17
Front: Double disc. Honda Combined ABS
Rear: Single disc. Honda Combined ABS

Physical capacities:
Gross weight: 196 kg
Fuel capacity: 18.16 L
Oil capacity: 3.5 L
Color options: Red/Black
The bike has gone through many changes since from its evolution. Honda CBR600RR-ABS model is available in Red/Black colors that's bit disappointing. Its Carbon dioxide emission is 132.9 CO2 g/km. Like all other Honda provides 1 year transferable, unlimited-mileage limited warranty with it. saddlebags can also be used as per requirement.Great bike to go for, you too may opt for it!
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