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New2scootin said:
Is it really necessary to use distilled water? Or is that overkill?
Supposedly, depending where you are from, tap water can have minerals in it (calcium, iron, etc.) that can react with your delicate cooling system parts. I scared so I pick up a gallon at the supermarket for a buck. I'm surprised the "MC antifreeze vs. no silicates car antifreeze" debate hasn't started.
 
A gallon of distilled water is cheap insurance, tap water is full of sediment and minerals. Most minerals are held in solution in the water, so when the minerals come out of solution (high temperature, pressure etc) they will form scale, and clog up the tiny water passages. Sediment can be filtered out, but minerals have to be distilled out.
 
Good to know. Thanks. What about the antifreeze they sell that is pre-diluted (a rip-off)? Is it cut with regular tap water or is it cut with distilled water. I think I know the answer.
 
Great writeup vanc. Your info and the other riders hints made changing my Majesty's antifreeze much easier.
I want to add a couple of my hints also. (1) When I had my Honda Shadow it was very difficult to get to the radiator cap. I bought one of the 10.00 pump up garden sprayers and unscrewed the tip so that I could use it to replace the new coolent. It's easy to control and much easier to reach the radiator fill.
and (2) I have a homemade attachent for my small shop vac that reduces it down to clear 1/2 plastic hose. Makes it easy to suck out the coolent from the recovery tank on my cars or bikes and on the bikes I press it to the opening after removing the drain plug. Then when the cap is off and the bleed screw is loose, you can suck out all the old coolent. I measured the amount sucked out of my Majesty and the Honda and all was removed by using the vac.
Again, thanks to all. Tom
 
I completed the procedure as described and now my Majesty is overheating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. First time I've had problems with this bike.
 
Beachwood said:
I completed the procedure as described and now my Majesty is overheating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. First time I've had problems with this bike.
you haven't got all the air out of the system. try bleeding it some more.

XJR
 
Finally changed the original coolant in my 2006 (yes I am embarrassed)... The bleed screw was kind of a B!+@H but all went well.. Thanks Vanc for the pics and encouragment
 
I did this a couple weeks ago and thanx to the OP i was able to find the bleeder screw fairly easy. What i did to get the coolant out of the overflow tank was to use a pump sprayer nozzle thing from a spray bottle. Just put the hose in and spray out the old coolant. Easy cheat cause i had an old one laying around. I need to make a funnel just for this scooter for filling the radiator. What a whacky place to fill coolant.
 
To get the antifreeze out of the overflow tank I use a turkey baster from the local dollar store. It worked so well, I bought a second one to use to suck out the brake reservoirs when changing out my brake fluid.
 
Thx so much for the photo's and walk thru. Forgot to "burp" the line, and it ran hot. Then found it, with head under seat. a"T" handle allen wrench made it much easier, And was relieved to hear the burp.
This is a great site. Having rode K 75's the past 10 years, I was hesitant in buying a scoot. But at 64....I like simple. And when thinking of a 400 or 650....the 400 is fine. I found a 2006, with 500 miles for $3500.

Owner had 2 Harley's. And probably never changed ANY of the fluids.

Thx again
 
Very useful info.I have a question and it is probably one of those no-brainers, but trying to cover all the bases.
Did an engine swap to a salvaged unit after my other piston melted.
Got the motor started, but it heats up while sitting on the stand with the fan blowing until the temperature gauge is flashing with an exclamation point!
Pulled the thermostat and referred to the service manual. It says the stat should open at 73.5 to 75.5 centigrade.
Using a digital thermometer, the stat doesn't open till around 88-90 C.
This was in the replacement motor, so I grabbed the one out of the deceased engine and it doesn't open at all.
Looking for a new stat and they are hard to find. So... is it unreasonable to expect the fan to cool a non moving scooter to within a safe temperature?
Possibly the service manual spec is incorrect?
Maybe go with the working stat on the road and see...?
Thanks
 
Pnanna said:
Very useful info.I have a question and it is probably one of those no-brainers, but trying to cover all the bases.
Did an engine swap to a salvaged unit after my other piston melted.
Got the motor started, but it heats up while sitting on the stand with the fan blowing until the temperature gauge is flashing with an exclamation point!
Pulled the thermostat and referred to the service manual. It says the stat should open at 73.5 to 75.5 centigrade.
Using a digital thermometer, the stat doesn't open till around 88-90 C.
This was in the replacement motor, so I grabbed the one out of the deceased engine and it doesn't open at all.
Looking for a new stat and they are hard to find. So... is it unreasonable to expect the fan to cool a non moving scooter to within a safe temperature?
Possibly the service manual spec is incorrect?
Maybe go with the working stat on the road and see...?
Thanks
These cooling systems work just like your car does. Sealed system with water pump moving the coolant through the engine and radiator. Those opening temps on the thermostats are ok, but it sounds like either your pump isn't working or the radiator has a major blockage. The fan works so that means the sending unit should be good, but it will come on temperature related even if the coolant isn't flowing. Take the thermostat out and start the engine. If the pump is working it will spray coolant all over. If nothing happens then you may have found the problem. If it does spray, then pull the radiator hoses off the radiator and try to reverse flush water through it. That means pump water in the bottom so it comes out the top. Maybe that will dislodge whatever is in there on out. Now I'm assuming (I know) that you 'burped the system with the bleeder screw before it ran hot on you. I assure you that if you did not open the bleeder screw that it will overheat in no time even if your pump and radiator is good. I ride when it's over 100*F out and never have a problem with overheating, or the temp gauge even going over halfway. Even idling for 15 mins in that temp. Small engine doesn't need much cooling, but it has to work. Try that stuff and see what happens, and please let us know what you find out.
 
Just a heads up most people will bang their head I as did. I had fault 46 and 61. None of them were the problem. So I have to assume if you get 46 and 61 it means your fuel injector is bad. Worst part the fuel injector on these pics according to your picture and my bike is they aren’t the fuel injector listed in the manual or online search. It’s actually a fuel injector for a 250cc engine with 12 holes.
 

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Excellent instructions, but I had an issue with the radiator cap, and the air bleed screw. The radiator cap was too close to the body and couldn't be twisted without brute force, once I got it off, I was able to get to the bolt holding it to the fender and adjust its angle and attachment.

The air bleed screw is supposed to have have 2 O rings on it originally, but it came out with just the small one, I probed for it but couldn't find it. I went to the hardware store, and they unbelievably had an O ring that fit. But when I went to replace the bleed screw, it didn't want to start without pushing HARD. Now, I know that other O ring is in there, but I can't get it out, so I got the bolt in and refilled the system. I am at a loss on how to get that O ring out. After " burping" the system with the air bleed screw, it heated up fine, and built pressure as expected.
Hi. Does a bike overheat without o-ring?
 
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