the seals are seperate from the filters. the oem ones are flat and go on each side of the filter. the made different oem seals are round cross section and actually compress when you put the cover over the filter where the flat ones do not compress. takes 4 of them of 2 different part numbers that come from yamaha. the other day I posted the service honda micro fich page that does have part numbers some where here.

 

JCT842- Sorry if this is a newbie question but Im a little confused on your comment about the air filter seals. Are you saying that ALL OEM filters have the flat seals and I should get a after market one? if so, which one? Or are you saying that they have a new OEM version of the filter out and the old version has the flat seals and the new version has the different seals? If so, how can I tell which ones Im getting?

 

No matter what you do on filters get the made different seals that go on each side of the filters. The OEM ones are flat and just do not seal, the new style is round and they do seal.

 

Air filters-another lengthy thread here. An alternative is to go foam. The factory paper ones are spendy and you'll replace them often due to the design of the bike. When you get into the tranny, you'll find the left airbox-that's the first thing you remove. Save the paper old dirty filter. Cut out the accordion paper. Buy the green unifoam, available anywhere, and cut out the rectangles from the sheet at the OUTSIDE diameter of the box. This is so it will compress slightly and seal better. I stack two of them just because I feel better about it. Don't forget to oil them just like a dirt bike. Much cheaper and works as well. This won't work with the tranny filter, just blow that one clean and put it back in. You'll also find that one when you tear into the tranny. Some here don't like to use the foam, whatever, your choice. You can spend $40 every 3k miles on factory filters or $18 once on foam and about $12 for oil and cleaner and get 6-8 uses before you buy oil and cleaner again-up to you.

 

I have a 2012 Majesty and have looked a couple of times for the air filters for it...so if you come across a place, please do share!

 

I went to the Yamaha site, and will order a hard copy from them. Pricey, but so is an hour of labor at the dealer.

 

There is a 2007 service manual floating around on the internet for free to be put on a cd. I like a paper one a whole lot better but beggars cant be choosy.

 

You can't go wrong with a genuine Yamaha Service manual... they built it and the manuals are very good.
I got mine from my local dealer and they can be pricey
Good luck!

 

I closed the deal today; the '06 Majesty is mine. I rode it about 45 miles. Very comfy, cruises easily at 70. I buzzed it up to 85, and it was very stable and tracked straight and true, despite the worn front tire.

I plan to do the clutch work in the next few weeks. I understand that the air filters need frequent service, too, which I'll do as soon as I can find them!

I'll be needing the proper workshop book (it's also lacking an owners manual). We're should I go for that? Thanks for your help so far; your thoughts and advice are one reason I purchased it.

 

My majesty was down for 8 days waiting for the local dealer to obtain that oring. I can buy parts on line for my chinese 150 scooter from a real stocking dealer and get them in 3 days. Yamaha just doesn't make sense to me. And I would prefer to ride the chinese scooter unless there is a lot of 50 or over speeds.

 

Right. That's why it pays to search online. Not only do you get a better deal but can even get the part sooner than the local stealer. They all whine about 'local economy' but then shoot themselves in the foot with their inane business practices.

 

I think you will find that no one carries parts in stock including yamaha dealers. They all order from the same yamaha usa warehouse, receive the parts then ship them out to you. The dealer who I bought my majesty from does not even carry an oring in stock.

 

for cheap OEM parts cyclepartswarehouse.com is the best I've found.

 

Thanks, Wilmo (and everyone else). That's a nice site; they also have stuff for my Elite.

Out of curiosity, I checked Bike Bandit to see if they covered the Majesty. They seemed to have all of the OEM clutch/transmission parts for it. Kind of pricey, but a little less than the dealer.

 

Jim I found the best place to get the rollers. I bought 2 sets of these at 13g, they come in sets of 4. Shipped total is $30-$10 per set plus $10 shipping. They ship fast and these work great. They are all you need don't waste your money on aftermarked clutches and such as they don't produce the bang for the buck. All you need are lighter weights and sand the shoes. You'll be amazed.
This is the link: https://www.battlescooterstore.com/sess ... shopscript when you get their click on the bottom link, then other bikes then Majesty 400. scroll down to the rollers and order 2 sets. That's it.

 

Thanks...this sounds like a common, but easily solved issue.

 

I have 13 gram weights in mine and I am perfectly satisfied the way it runs. You do have to clean out the clutch from time to time and I sand the glaze off clutch bell and shoes, that gets rid of stuttering.

 

Nix on spending all the $$$ to buy aftermarket clutches and variators. All you need is different weights. I have used this combination continuously for the last 10,000 miles: 4 12 gram and 4 original 15 gram for a total of 108 grams (stock is 120). I am very happy with the performance increase and nearly same gas mileage.

Buy fancy clutches and variators only if/when there's something wrong with the stock ones.

Be sure the belt has been replaced. The stock one would be well over the limit by now. I replaced mine at 20,000 miles. My '07 Majesty 400 now has 24,800 miles and runs like new (better, actually).

 

Thanks--I've found both the weights and HIT clutch online. Would fresh OEM shoes and aftermarket weights make a substantial difference, as opposed to the full HIT clutch? I understand that this isn't a performance bike (I have one of those in the garage) but it's pretty anemic as is.

 

OOPS! Yours is a 2006...had the WEAK clutch.

Neil

 

The revs dropping when it finally hits 20 mph is the CLUTCH slipping that entire time.

Dr. Pulleys will really help the acceleration, BUT will actually make the clutch slip WORSE; you'll have to feather the throttle till the clutch locks-in.
The only long-term cure is the Dr. Pulley H.I.T. Clutch; different design with no slippage and lasts forever. I was GOING to put one in my 2009 majesty with the Dr. Pulleys, but upgraded to a Tmax and sold the Maj...HIS problem now...

What year is the Majesty? Earlier ones had WORSE clutches..

Neil

 

Yamaha won't have 13g rollers. You'll have to look online for them. Specifically, 13g weight X25mm diameter 8 of em. It's good you don't yet need a belt. I have a link to a good place but that is at home on a different computer. IF I don't forget, I'll send you the link PM

 

Thanks, Wilmo, for that great reply. That seems to explain the way the scoot performs, and the change I felt at 20 mph. The owner said the belt was replaced, along with the rear tire, about a thousand miles ago. I feel pretty sure that little else has been done, since it is rideable as is..

I haven't checked yet, but are parts available from Bike Bandit, Parts Shark, etc., or would I have to go to my local Yamaha shop?

 

All of the things you speak of are normal. It is a high compression single cylinder thumper. That vibration you describe is because of that -normal. Now about takeoff. It is a scooter with CVT transmission. The nature of this beast is that there will be belt slipping from standstill, again normal and as designed. But you can improve on this. Most likely, the previous owner hasn't done much to the tranny. Get the manual, the REAL Yamaha manual. Then get into the tranny, I've done it many times, it isn't hard to work on at all. But, before you do, get new rollers for the front variator. The stock ones are 15gX8. I significantly improved my takeoff performance by going to 13g rollers with no significant top speed sacrifice-it still gets to 93mph when I need to. Undoubtedly, the stock rollers are still in there and have developed flat spots preventing them from slinging out like they are supposed to which will cause delay in takeoff. Lighter, round rollers will allow a much faster response from engine to rear wheel. You'll also want to clean the variator out. Once you hit 18mph, the rear wheel now has enough inertia to lock the clutch shoes to the drum on the rear half of the tranny which means now you have direct drive to the rear wheel from the tranny through the belt. That's that change in engine sound you describe and why it now takes off. Now about the clutch shoes. They resemble small brake pads only curved. During takeoff, these shoes are also sliding some on the drum before lockup causing glazing on the surfaces, normal wear and tear. Sand these clutch shoes with a little sandpaper to remove the glazing. Check the belt. If you don't know how long it's been on there, it might be wise just to replace it. And with a stock factory belt, the kevlar ones really are not an improvement. Put the thing back together as per instructions and then your first ride. You will be amazed at the difference this makes. The cost is not significant as the belt, if needed, is the most expensive part, around $115 if you shop around. About mileage. 23,000 miles is NOT high or a red flag at all. Many on here have well over 40,000 miles and still going. My '05 has almost 29,000 and runs as good as the day I bought it. Actually better with the lighter rollers. Sounds like you're getting a good deal and if you like it, buy it. There's plenty of good information on this site to help you with any questions you have.

 

The bike doesn't shudder, stumble, etc. The engine revs, it slowly builds to 20, then the revs drop a bit, and it picks up speed. It actually reminds me of the old two speed automatics from the mid '60's six cyclinder cars.

 

I have the same problem.